Search results

if i am just taking out a few nibs then i just wrap a block with 1500 w/d, hit the spot then compound it. if its fresh clear then it will come right out. i dont bother running through grits. if the clear has sat awhile then maybe i will use 2000. if i needed to do a whole car then just the green...

3/16" orbital sander and i never run my sander wide open. maybe @ 2/3 speed.

i know i have written all that stuff before but it always gets lost and i can never find it again. i get pm's all the time about the process. this time it needs to be made a sticky. so dean wrote this in there but i will toss it out there again that if you sprayed the clear on the heavy side...

the wheels were blasted correct? if so then you need to sand all the areas your trying to polish to get the blasting texture out of it. you'll need to get it up to about 600-1200 grit then polish with some wheels and rouge. once polished you need to degrease the wheels, mask the polished areas...

vinyl fineline tape. 3m 471+

picture of the rim would help

i have found its a futile effort to make attempts to keep the dust down. i do just like don. i open all the doors once a week and use a backpack blower to blow the whole shop out. from outside it looks like my shop is on fire there is so much dust.

Yes my initial cut i prefer wool but then switch to foam after

Put some acetone on a rag and rub the backside. If it bites nto the plastic or yougwt some black on the rag then just spray it. No prep necessary

what type of plastic is it printed in?

rotary..... wool 2000-2200 foam 1200-1400

battery is fine if your doing something small but if you have alot of sqft to do then your going to want a corded model. buffers take some serious power to run and work the paint surface so your going to suck a battery down in no time and if you have hours of compounding and polishing to do then...

well it depends on how many coats you have on it and how much sun it sees. just a 2 coat job i would give 2-3 mos. more coats means a longer wait. could be up to 6 mos. same rules as a wax or any type of sealant.

Inhave never had universal take 30 min to flash. Once i can lightly run my finger over it and not have it stick then its ready to gi. If it takes me 20 min to make it around all my parts then its damn near ready to just start the next coat

i usually let it run between coats but typically by the time im done spraying its only running maybe 5 min then im back in doing the next coat so not worth the shutdown each time. i have shut it down between as well and i see no difference either way other than the flash slows way down. i...

i was resistant for awhile but eventually gave in and i see no adverse effects to using ceramic. it just makes everything easier to clean and it all stays clean for longer. just remember there are 2 types. an actual ceramic coat like what 68 had done and the spray type which offers the...

spi black either in ss or bc/cc there is no brown in it at all. if your looking at old posts though then that may be why. the old stuff from years ago had a brown flop to it in direct sun. hard to see but it was there. newer stuff in the past maybe 5-6 years (guessing) does not. cant go wrong...

are you sure the wheels weren't clearcoated? for any of those cleaners to work the aluminum needs to be bare.

i cant really answer that one. what you are trying to avoid is it flashing too fast so be sure to keep airflow low as well. dont put a fan on it or anything like that. it will defat the purpose. too fast and things can start to blush. base will do it before clear will. piling on the coats of...

slowest activator and reducer you can get, allow much longer flash times and do not hammer on the base.