Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
I posted a link to some earlier in this thread
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Curious, how do you use it on glass?
ct71rr
Promoted Users
Yes, they work for that. I use them in areas where I can’t get my die grinder in. They’ll also grind through factory spot welds.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Been reading this and just thought share some thoughts. I've probably had to remove as many or more spot welds in the last 32 years as anyone on the forum. The only place a belt sander would be better than a die grinder with a weld grinding wheel would be in the odd inaccessible place. In those spots I use a drill bit or a spot weld bit. But those spots are few and far between as a spot welder has to have room to do its job. Nothing is going to cut a spot weld quicker or more economically than a weld grinding wheel on die grinder. Anyone who says different has no idea what they are talking about. Belt sanders are harder to control, slower and less economical.
My favorite size is the one on the blue die grinder. 1/8" inch works well too and is cheaper.
My favorite size is the one on the blue die grinder. 1/8" inch works well too and is cheaper.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
I should add that a good air hammer and a sharp tailpipe chisel will remove them quick but it is hard to control and not do additional damage. The spot weld chisel marketed for an air hammer doesn't work as good as a curved chisel or even the straight chisel. Takes some experience to use. I do use the air hammer often to help separate panels after grinding the spot welds. But again you need to be careful not to do additional damage using it. Safest method to separate panels after grinding is using a hammer and a thin blade chisel with the sharpened angle edge facing away from the panel you are removing. Having it face away keeps you from tearing the bottom panel. Having the angle facing the panel you are removing will often times result in tearing the bottom panel. That's tip is one of those things that no one tells you. You're welcome.
That little gold bit is useful in cutting sheet. Works just like an air shear that cuts and leaves a curl. It is very handy when you are trying to remove the bulk of a damaged panel before you remove the spot welds. My favortite tool for separating panels is on the right. Had that one for a long time as you can see.
That little gold bit is useful in cutting sheet. Works just like an air shear that cuts and leaves a curl. It is very handy when you are trying to remove the bulk of a damaged panel before you remove the spot welds. My favortite tool for separating panels is on the right. Had that one for a long time as you can see.
epb72
Promoted Users
spot weld cutter above works very well I got mine simular to to that one from my local welding supply ,,,
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Those were the first "real" ones I bought back in 1993 or so. I used drill bits before that. They work OK but not as good as a spot weld bit. Plus they have parts that wear out like the centering pin. And they leave the center of the spot weld so you have to grind all of them before you can install the new panel. I can grind 10 spot welds using the die grinder before I could drill 2 or 3 using a rotary cutter.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Another reason I don't like the rotary style listed above is that when doing them correctly you need to center punch each spot weld or the tool will slip. No thank you .
John Long
Member
I really like the 3/16 X 3” disc you have on the blue grinder to.. If it helps anyone, I think the 3M part number was 01991.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
These are the ones on that blue die grinder. Norton Medallion. I get them from my jobber. Through my Jobber they are a couple of bucks cheaper than 3M. I like them as much or more than the 3M's. Last a little bit longer too.
Norton Medallion Cut-Off Blades, 3" x 3/16" x 3/8", Package of 5 (NTN-89034)
Medallion Cut-Off Blades deliver premium, unmatched performance on the job. Fiberglass reinforced with a special resinoid bond and available in three thicknesses, Medallion Cut-Off Blades are the ultimate choice for cool, easy, free-cutting of sheet metal, or heavy duty cutting of muffler...
www.autobodynow.com
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
I simply find the spot weld and grind it. You use the edge, just like you would use a thinner cut-off wheel. I use the same tool to grind welds as well.
So find your spot weld and then use the wheel, grind until you start seeing the metal turn blue. When it does that you know that the top panel is getting very thin in that spot. Do the same procedure for a few more spot welds.
Then I take a thin chisel, actually an old KD-Tools gasket scraper and put it between the panels at the spot weld I want to break. Start gently hammering the chisel manipulating it until the spot weld separates. Sometimes you may need to go back and grind a little more. Better to be conservative in order to not dig into the bottom panel.
Any thin gasket scraper works well for this. Keep the angle edge facing away from the panel you are removing.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Same thing as a cut-off wheel only it's thicker.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Second that.
About 6-7 years ago I was grinding some welds. had only safety glasses on. Felt something go in my eye, blinked and it was gone. Three days later I'm in agony and I see a black spot in the white of my eye. Turned out to be a 5mm sliver of steel lodged in my eye. Had to have multiple scrapings of my eye to remove the rust ring. Very painful and expensive mistake. Now I only use a full face shield.