MigNice.
Doesn't the door skin bulge outwards just inboard of the welding?
Is it MIG he's using?
Brian builds it on a jigLooks great!!
Curious, when taking them down that far, on reassembly do you have pre cut gauge bars/blocks, fixtures to insure correct locations of the sub frame sections? I've replace wheel houses, floors, quarters and such but never had one down that far.
John
When doing panel to panel, do you have weatherstripping installed?
There's a thread somewhere where Rusty uses a new body. You'd be surprised how much cutting and welding that took to make "right".Rusty just fantastic work and as a shade tree guy it's over whelming the quality of work and the sheer amount of work required.
But I have to ask when do you just get a new body?
You can buy a complete reproduction 1970 fastback body for around $19K?
1970 Repo Body
Maybe the car is so valuable that keeping any amount of the original sheet metal is worth saving?
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Yes you can but you don't get a Ford Vin and in most states it's not legal to cut out the vin and transfer to a new body. So now you have a kit car. The sheet metal doesn't line up so you have a lot of labor to get good gaps. The body we worked on the rear valance was tack welded on and bare metal under it. You also have to buy every part to build a Mustang. I would rather have one built on our jig with some original Ford pieces and vin.Rusty just fantastic work and as a shade tree guy it's over whelming the quality of work and the sheer amount of work required.
But I have to ask when do you just get a new body?
You can buy a complete reproduction 1970 fastback body for around $19K?
1970 Repo Body
Maybe the car is so valuable that keeping any amount of the original sheet metal is worth saving?
.
.
.
I have never added black to the red oxide on a Mustang. I helped Barry come up with red oxide years ago.
I think the black is added to get GM red oxide from the 70’s.Thanks Rusty