zero rust

form406;6114 said:
is it opened? is so, divide it up in quart cans and sell it. :)

It's sealed, one gallon and three spray cans, used part of one can...other than that...intact
 
Im just glad I didnt have to strip the entire underbody, glad I asked before I sprayed! :D
 
I agree, nothing wrong with G2 IMO... TX79Z28, don't waste you time applying that coating to just strip it off later. Ebay it! Or find another use for it. The only areas I see a use for these products that are designed to attach to rust are if you have a really old rot bucket you could maybe spray it on the inside structure where everything is surface rusted-no sunlight to break it down and no exposure to the elements. But then again, epoxy and/or some of the wax based coatings would also work fine to stop the rust growth.

I just picked up a part from the blaster that a friend was working on, he originally gave me the part and said it was final primed and ready for the final sanding and paint. This part had some severe rust, had been dipped, then he let it set and it flash rusted so instead of cleaning the flash rust off he coated it with a POR type coating, then epoxy, filler, primer, sandings, primer.... I looked at it and seen micro cracking in the primer. All his work and materials wasted because he tried to take the quick way out with the rust coating. Now it's freshly blasted and coated with epoxy-back to square one, but this time it'll get done right and probably last 30+ years.
 
G-2 is a fine product and not talking about G-2 here.

I don't know who I talked to Friday or what state, all I know is the short of the conversation was this (condensed from 60 minutes)

I epoxied my 69 Camaro 6 months ago and the fender, door and rocker 5 months ago.
The first part of car 3/4 of it you cannot scrap or chisel the epoxy off as he used 700 after blasting or sanding, not sure.

Now if the air hose hits the rocker or door or fender the epoxy flakes off and I did it the same as the other part of the car.

My response was:
Can't happen, even if you painted over contaminated steel it would not do this.
I will give you the causes and you will have to figure it out because I see no reason for the epoxy to do this, even if you mis-mixed it.

Unneutralized soda.
Unneutralized acid.
Sorry, can't help you more but something is very wrong here and it is not savable.

OH, well I used this AND this (two different products if I understand right) to protect the metal for a month, great, now you can strip those three panels and I gave instructions to neutralize with Ospho to be safe.

When will people learn, how many more warnings can we give?

Funny thing, this guy was pissed and I guarantee the two phony posts on Hotrodders today is a result of him chewing someones butt.

WHATEVER company epoxy you are using follow that companies tech sheet, if you want to use stuff like pickleX, metal ready or any other metal cleaner use that company's epoxy, not mine, as I hate giving out bad news to people that have worked so hard and spent so much one to do a project.
 
68, the G2 gallon has been opened and ive had i for a few years so i wouldnt trust it enough to sell to someone. ill probably end up using it, if the stuff doesnt go bad... i can use it for my pitted formula firebird that has a bad paint job on it... bad paint job from someone using an anti-rust product before primer, and it all lifting in rust spots like poison oak!
 
I deserve to get flamed for this, but here it goes anyway...

Back before I knew better, I did a ground off on my 1977 Ford 4x4. I used a POR 15 copy called Chassis saver on my fame, inner fenders etc.. All metal was blasted and preped properly. The chassis saver has held up very well, except for fading due to UV light.

Can I top coat this with epoxy?
 
I don't know know if you can or not.

There are a number of products out there that are the same as por15 as it is very easy and cheap to make, problem is nothing will stick to it without a tie coat.

And at that point the tie coat is the weakest link.

Only the manufacturer of the product can tell you how and what is needed to do this.
 
Thanks Barry

According to the manufacturer, you can top coat it with "most types of paint". They recommend this for UV appliactions. I guess I'll give it a try on a small part and see what happens. I hate to strip the whole thing, since I took so much care in cleaning it once and it seems to have good adhesion.

For anyone out there reading this, don't mess with this crap. I wish I knew better then.
 
Here we go again!!

The call--

We had the motorcycle frame sand basted, the blaster protected the metal with Oshpo and said use a gray pad to sand and wax and grease remover and primer.

Well first they gray padded washed with wax and grease remover and applied body filler where needed, then they epoxied everything.

Later when they blew off the bike, the filler came off the metal and the epoxy blew off the metal.

You have got to love an unneutralized acid!
 
but the master from augusta says you can shoot spi right over ospho . been doing it for 35 years on high end resto's.............. :)
 
Back
Top