Yellow Coverage

DougS

Promoted Users
I've painted the underside of my trunk and hood using the same method , white SPI sealer, 3 coats of DBC, 3 coats of 5000 but I can tell a difference in color. Its nothing a camera would necessarily catch but I can tell. I bought two gallons of DBC code 56 Corvette Bright Yellow. Shook and stirred them both, poured them into a 10qt stainless pan and stirred with a drill paddle and then poured into 8 quart cans because I am painting the car apart and doing my best to make it match. I bought SPI white sealer and am spraying one coat 4-1-1.5 over sanded gray SPI standard primer. Obviously now I am concerned about color match! My questions are.

1) Do added coats of base just achieve color coverage or will they change the color to the point of not being the proper color?
2) Wondering if not waiting the same amount of time on the sealer drying could cause the yellow base and white sealer to mix and lighten the color?
3) Some brands of sealer claim "better gloss hold out", are there differences in urethane sealers or are they all basically primer?
 
Yellow has poor hiding. 3 coats over white sealer will make it yellow, but it will not have complete coverage. Complete coverage would probably take 6-8 coats. That being said, because of poor hiding, the amount of coats applied must be sprayed the same, as far as how wet it is applied, time between coats, etc. The undercoat must be opaque, with no gray primer showing through. This will change the color, also, because it does not actually have complete coverage. Wait the recommended time between sealer and base. Urethane sealers are primers that spray smoother, basically.
 
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My recommendation is to do several sprayouts. Tape it up so that each time you spray a coat that coat is only one layer and the first coat you sprayed has the most layers. So spray a coat, then uncover the next strip to be sprayed. This way you can look back and see how many layers of paint you need for the look that you want. Then cover up only half of what you've sprayed when you clear it. This way you can match the uncleared base on the spray out to the uncleared base on the car. Also number of layers of clear can have an effect also. Give proper flash times. Do the spray outs just as you would if you were painting the car. Everything has to be the same in order to have same results.
 
Thanks T and E! I created a log tonight will log the spraying and do my best to spray them exactly the same. Plan to paint the body, clear the booth and spray the fenders and doors, then the trunk and hood. 1 coat of sealer doesn't perfectly hide the gray. May have to do something different there. I may have to jamb it out and paint the car complete but I know I can do better clear work apart in my limited facilities.
 
I should have written that when I do these types of spray outs I'm using flat pieces of metal that I've sprayed the same color of primer that is being used on the project. Sometimes the metal is three foot by three foot. Gives plenty of room to experiment.
 
Spraying that yellow over a solid white base is critical. Any of that gray showing through will tend to make the yellow have a green cast to it, in varying degrees. I would suggest 2 coats of sealer, even if a light scuff is needed before base. With a solid white base, the problem of panels not matching will be greatly reduced.
 
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Spraying that yellow over a solid white base is critical. Any of that gray showing through will tend to make the yellow have a green cast to it, in varying degrees. I would suggest 2 coats of sealer, even if a light scuff is needed before base. With a solid white base, the problem of panels not matching will be greatly reduced.

The Valiant will be Motobase Yellow.... so over white you say... guess I need to make an order...
 
I ended up using DBC code 56 1976 Corvette Bright Yellow, I ordered a sample of the Motobase version but it was darker and a touch more mustard to it. Im really happy with the color. 2 coats of SPI white sealer, 4 coats of DBC and 5 coats of Euro 2020.
 

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Thanks, first time using 2020, I usually use universal but this is a "driver". I really like the 2020. I went 4-1-1 but will add a touch more reducer next time. I progressively added retarder as I went. That retarder is where its at! It was 85 degrees in Charleston and low humidity. Perfect painting day.
 
That looks really nice. I love it when an paint job comes out that sweet from "limited facilities".

Big block Chevelles are so cool. In my high school parking lot (mid '70s) there were 4 big block '66-67 Chevelles.... three 396's and one 427. Good times!
 
It's a 396 car but it has a 427 in it, all after market except the 67 427 block and steel crank, AFR CNC heads, comp solid street roller, 10.5 to 1, dual quad edelbrocks, twin disc clutch, AGE M23 Muncie with Gear Vendors overdrive. 12 bolt with 3.42 gears. Mostly show but it will go. Before I began the body work in January I smoothed the firewall, rebuilt the seats, added hydraulic clutch, hydraboost brake system and vintage air. The pic of the roof is why they call it Euro "2020" I guess.
 

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