Wrong bedliner guns vs. GEO gun?

J

jsifrit

This is repeated over and over on the product info, but I'd love to get a visual of this. Is it just the tip size that's making the difference? What are people using that is incorrect, and is it an adhesion problem and too smooth of a texture? Any better pics of the GEO gun? Thanks, and I have attached some pics of my old gun for comparison. 12192010096.jpg

12192010097.jpg

12192010098.jpg
 
It is two things, inside diameter of head.

Will your gun hurt or affect adhesion? NO.
May effect texture but that is no big deal, what will happen is you will blow about 50% in the air and not know it and then you will call me and chew me out because a gallon kit did not cover worth a damn.

Get at least 2-3 calls a month like that and that is why I can pinpoint the 50% lost of material to perfection.
 
Makes sense, thanks Barry. Looking forward to trying it out. I'll be doing some fiberglass flares and the lower part of my buddy's '98 Tacoma. I'll be sure to post the results w/ pics.
 
i love my gun. it is very adjustable and will work at lower pressure. if the floor is black it has to be counted as coverage :) i dont even recall who makes it. knock-off of something i'm sure. but it shoots the lizardskin really good. very little waste.
 
Shine,

Wow, old thread. So when you say you love your gun, its the SPI recommended gun? It sounds like you can adjust the pattern to control the material thickness? Is it a metal or all plastic gun?
 
i bought it years ago to shoot lizardskin . much like the one above but will not fit the cans. you can adjust the fluid tip and air pressure along with reduction to get the effect you want. the bedliner guns with no adjustment waste product bad.bedliner gun.jpg
 
I have a brand new schultz gun never been used. But it has a huge inside diameter on both pick up tube and spray tip. Im talking around 1/4". I cant imagine it spraying on a nice coat of anything. I am convinced it must have a way to control the flow. I have a paint gun with a 2.8 tip for spraying poly primers (slick sand). But I am not going to use that gun for bedliner so I think I will use the one SPI is recommending. I was hoping I could find some pictures and more information on the GEO gun that SPI sells, but so far, any information on the gun itself is pretty limited.
 
i think it is something like mine . the shultz gun is useless as tit's on a bull. used for undercoating but runs wild .
 
I can see why you would say that about the Schultz Gun. Just a straight 1/4" pick up tube shooting out a 1/4" tip. Sounds like the only way to control it is with air pressure and that would be pretty inadequate.
 
I ordered SPI GEO yesterday. I am hoping it has the option to adjust the material flow and has the capability to attach flexible extensions to spray undercoating material in those places that can not be sprayed otherwise. In my opinion, the perfect undercoating gun would have the ability to spray both epoxy primer and heavy bodied products (undercoating, sound deadner, insulation) not only on exposed surfaces but those areas that can not be reached in a normal application.

Right now I am working on replacing four cab corners on a 56 Ford Pickup Cab. Once the rusted cab corners are removed, the sheet metal is sandblasted. Then the sandblasted metal and replacements can be coated with epxoy. Where the replacement panels are going to be re attached, the metal should be bare to allow welding. Sand off epoxy in area to be welded and shoot with weld thru primer. Then weld replacement panels in place. What you have now is burned epxoy off any area inside the cavity. It would be nice to have a flexible extension wand that would reach those areas to add epxoy and undercoating after you are done.

One gun that would be dedicated to epoxy primer and undercoating (only for these concealed areas that are damaged after assembley) would be awesome.There is such a gun, but its for applying "cavity wax", and does nor recommend undercoating. Maybe "cavity wax" is a good option to correct this problem?
 
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