Window for SPI base

Bob Hollinshead;38532 said:
how many coats of clear? and are you planning to cut and buff for no paint lines?

Hey Bob
I put 2 coats of clear, sanded with 800, laid out the template , shot the black, put 2 more coats of clear sanded paint lines out with 800 and shot 3 more coats of clear. have not cut or buffed the final clear yet and was wondering what the process is and what everybody was using to do the cut and buffing.
Dave
 
You'll find a lot of different recommendations on this, some start with 400 grit, some work their way to 1200 and buff others take it to 3000 or 5000 grit before buffing. There's a lot of good threads here if you search. Start with 1000, then 1500, then 2000, 3000 and you can stop there or go to 5000 and make the buffing really easy.
 
Bob Hollinshead;38546 said:
You'll find a lot of different recommendations on this, some start with 400 grit, some work their way to 1200 and buff others take it to 3000 or 5000 grit before buffing. There's a lot of good threads here if you search. Start with 1000, then 1500, then 2000, 3000 and you can stop there or go to 5000 and make the buffing really easy.

Thanks Bob

I assume that when you buff you use a compound, is there a brand that is better than others? Also what I have read they didn't really specify a brand or
how course or fine the compound is. Again I am assuming it comes in different grades or textures or grits . I guess you can tell I don't know a thing about it and it was a miracle from God I got the hood looking as good as I did. So I was just wondering the specifics .

Thank you Bob for all your help I couldn't have got this for with out you guys helping.
Dave
 
I use the 3M three step system http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Perfect-It-EX-Rubbing-Compound-Quart-P207575.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjwpcGfBRDni__JqrTIqx4SJAB9BpSOW1lfMaN_7Lubo-BFRbIpZWQOCynwPKKnt1XTLVeH9BoC_Abw_wcB

The perfect-it EX followed by step two and three. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51ia7FkgJJL._SX300_.jpg

You can get the same results with presta, norton, meguires.... but the 3M system is the least amount of work IMO

- - - Updated - - -

sand any urethane wave and defects, orange peel dirt nibs...out with a block and 1000 grit, follow that with 1500 on a soft pad, and progress down to 2000 grit. The 3m trizac 3000 and 5000 on a DA with an interface pad and it will buff and polish to perfection with little effort
 
Bob Hollinshead;38554 said:
I use the 3M three step system http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Perfect-It-EX-Rubbing-Compound-Quart-P207575.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjwpcGfBRDni__JqrTIqx4SJAB9BpSOW1lfMaN_7Lubo-BFRbIpZWQOCynwPKKnt1XTLVeH9BoC_Abw_wcB

The perfect-it EX followed by step two and three. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51ia7FkgJJL._SX300_.jpg

You can get the same results with presta, norton, meguires.... but the 3M system is the least amount of work IMO

- - - Updated - - -

sand any urethane wave and defects, orange peel dirt nibs...out with a block and 1000 grit, follow that with 1500 on a soft pad, and progress down to 2000 grit. The 3m trizac 3000 and 5000 on a DA with an interface pad and it will buff and polish to perfection with little effort

Thanks Bob for the information it is what I needed.
Dave
 
I'm with Bob on his method. Also I like to flow coat my own personal work, I block my clear to 800 to remove any urethane wave then 2 more coats of clear then pick up the block and work thru the buff.
 
bomccorkle;38574 said:
I'm with Bob on his method. Also I like to flow coat my own personal work, I block my clear to 800 to remove any urethane wave then 2 more coats of clear then pick up the block and work thru the buff.

I was trying to get this process clear in my pea size brain, ai think I understand now.

Thanks Bo
 
The first cut and buff is a daunting task, there is a very real possibility of burning thru etc. And its also hard to find info on since cut and buff is pretty much a custom bit as well (collision does it but not to the same kind of standards) I like the dewalt buffer cause they are heavy enough you just pretty much use its weight although after getting much practice I may buy a flex to try out. Most important is to keep the buffer moving and watch any hard corners they burn thru the quickest, you can always make another pass with the buffer no need to rush, hoods are fairly easy since there aren't many major contours. I use all three steps with the perfect it system and I think it works quite well with a minimum of effort.

Like I said nice looking work and it'll be a showpiece after you shine her up.

Also to easiest way I have found to see urethane wave is to find something that should be straight (a door or window) in the reflection and see how it looks.
 
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