why you never use POR-15 EVER!!!!

shine;n77267 said:
dariyland brand products . sterosol milkstone remover . 12.99 gal.. i use it in a bug sprayer after blasting if the car is bad. any farm and ranch store will have it.

true to the course there is a new rust converter being pushed . i have never seen a high end shop use a rust converter .
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I never use rust converter, my use of POR-15 on this truck was to see what the outcome would be. Living in the rust belt and having the rust growing I knew what I was going to end up having to do so I figured this was going to be a good experiment to prove that these products have no real world benefit in the fight aginst rust.
As for high end resto shops using products like this, Shine is correct. If they did, they would be (in my eyes) hacks with no real world experience or knowledge.
On a side note does anyone have any experience with a rinse that is suppose to dissolve salt? I've seen some products that claims to dissolve the salts used on roads and claims that just rinsing or washing doesn't remove the salts.
 
odd that the poster asking about it is from the same place it's made ????? but it is just another snake oil converter .
i feel for you living in the rust belt . i drive a truck for 10+ years or until it rolls over and dies . down on the coast you loose half the truck before it's paid for . lived in colorado for a while and it was the same thing . Lizer would be a good source for that. he knows more about chemicals than any of us . shoot him a pm .
 
I am trying a product called Black Star on the next project. We tried the dupont rust converter before, best test was sanding it after it turned black. the dupont sanded off and you went right to dry rust. So far a sanding test with Black Star has been all black sanding dust. Dont think it is a different product since it goes black, but using it in the gallon jug instead of the aerosol might make it more concentrated. They do not recommend water based products on top of it for your primers and topcoats though, even though you should apparently be able to leave it as it without painting.

We are kinda screwed with this one, the project was started, boxed the frame, sent out for sandblasting and got caught in a hurricaine. Its only a matter of time that the rust on the boxed areas end up getting thru.
 
what we found with the converters was that if it got damp after treatment it would start to rust again only worse . after talking with a r&d guy from ppg i found out what crap they were . not sure i could ever trust a converter again . tuff spot to be in .
 
shine;n77273 said:
odd that the poster asking about it is from the same place it's made ?????

Lizer would be a good source for that. he knows more about chemicals than any of us . shoot him a pm .
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Is that for me?

I will PM Lizer and see if he has any idea. I'm more then confident in that all the steps and especially the material used will get this project to last a good long time. My concern now is for the 2013 Ford truck I recently bought. Every truck I work on gets blowout rust holes in the bed in 3yrs. I just did a 2013 Ford bedside that was rust proofed with Krown rust proofing since it was new and when I peeled the bed side off it still had rust starting at the top of the wheel house like they all do. The stupid factory uses a spray foam to seal the panels which absorbs water and holds dirt. I always remove it and never put it back in to me that's just stupid.
The same rust proofer said (I had them rust proof mine before i worked on the customers truck) that I should buy their version of this salt wash, stating that it dissolves road salt and said that simply washing and rinsing will not remove it. I thought B.S. so I looked into it and see many differant brands that claim the samething.
 
the first part is just about anew and improved converter being pushed somewhere else . same old stuff new bottle. odd it is made in the same town the poster is from .
if you do find a way to protect the up there you will get rich :) . lizer is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to chemistry .

i learned too late that spray foam IS NOT sealed and will rust your roof sheeting. i will never use it again .
 
I thought mabey the maker was from W.PA where I'm at, I was willing to take the old parts and rub their nose it it :D.

You and I should get together to come up with something mabey we could get rich together, we both worked hard enough in our lives we deserve it ;).
 
Just my 2 cents. I've owned a classic car restoration shop and have been at it since 1989 and before that for my uncle. Anyway, the 100% way to fix is to cut out the corrosion and weld in new panel, butt welded, both sides finished. NOW that is not always feasible, when it is not OSPHO and followed by epoxy is the only way to go IMHO. I've been doing it for years. Great for quarter panel to wheel house area where you know you have rust but it has not "grown" through yet. I OSPHO with a small pump up sprayer, neutralize and rinse. Then I mix and epoxy, pouring it in there is necessary. POR15 bit me in the butt many many years ago, heater channels on a Porsche 356.
 
will have to see what Dub can do, other wise I will see if I can upload them again, which will be a pain. Somehow they got lost in the site change.
 
I was going to print this thread for a friend but with pics gone it might not have as much of a convincing argument. Thank you for starting it for it.
 
elwood said:
I was going to print this thread for a friend but with pics gone it might not have as much of a convincing argument. Thank you for starting it for it.
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I will be emailing the pics to Dub and see if he can place them. I can't edit the post with the new sites format
 
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