Which do you prefer Meguires m 100 or m 110

[crashtech]

@CamJam The only thing buffing without sanding is good for is removing oxidation and minor scratches from aged paint jobs. Buffing without sanding on a new paint job will do next to nothing, imo.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Wet sanding with a hard block gets the surface perfectly flat. This is necessary for the mirror like reflections.

Removing the 1000 grit scratches with 1500 isn't really that difficult since you will be using a soft rubber block rather than the hard block.

You can use guide coat to ensure the 1000 grit scratches are removed.

Notice in this picture there are a couple of areas that need a little more sanding:

If it is a driver paint job, then you don't have to get too particular as long as your clear went on and flowed out nice.

This truck went home "as sprayed" and the owner was very happy. However, a trained eye can see the lack of detail in the reflections.

 

[Sugar Elf Creations]

Bringing this thread back from the dead yet again. I know the normal process for cut and buff after clear is sanding with 1000, 1500 and 2000, then polish-- M100 being my choice there-- but I really have a hard time taking 1000 grit (or any sandpaper for that matter) to my new paint job. I'd rather spend more time with a twisted wool pad and M100 than adding sandpaper scratches that I have to be removed later. Obviously, this doesn't work for major orange peel, but minor peel seems to polish out fine with just M100. Anyone else skipping the sandpaper step?

There really isn't a need to cut and polish fresh paint if you are not going to sand it first, unless there is a lot of trash or imperfections you are trying to remove.

Without sanding the panel first, the orange peel is still going to be present; there's no way around that.

I've had success with only using p2000 for color sanding on paint jobs that were really close off the gun. You are correct that p1000 can be aggressive if not watched carefully, so if using a higher grit is more comfortable, that's totally fine, just takes a bit longer to remove the orange peel.

 

[CamJam]

Nice job on the truck, but yeah as the paint gets glossier it's amazing how every little ripple stands out. The biggest part of this is my inexperience, no doubt, but I've definitely gotten better at laying it down without peel so haven't felt the need to go down to 1,000 lately. Just seems so much harder to get the gloss back when I go that coarse, so I figure if I need to go that far I'd rather just sand the topcoat and respray.

'68 Coronet R/T, I've followed your posts through the years on this and other forums and you've definitely developed some skills. I think you're in Chino Valley, aren't you? I'm on the other side of the mountain, in the Verde Valley.

 

[Vanillagorilla]

Im interested in trying a new system. For everyone using m100, what are you going to after using it? For the 2nd step, or 3rd if needed. Thanks.

 

[Jim C]

Im interested in trying a new system. For everyone using m100, what are you going to after using it? For the 2nd step, or 3rd if needed. Thanks.

i have and still think the 3d 510/520 is the best BUT for the cutting i switched back to m100 simply due to the cost. we do so much buffing that the 3d gets expensive for only shaving a couple minutes off the job. we go through about a gal a month so it starts to add up. i still use the 3d 520 after the m100 and that works fantastic. being a polish we use very little. 1qt of 520 to about 4 gal of m100 or so. i am happy to pay the few extra bucks for that stuff.

 

[dhutton01]

i have and still think the 3d 510/520 is the best BUT for the cutting i switched back to m100 simply due to the cost. we do so much buffing that the 3d gets expensive for only shaving a couple minutes off the job. we go through about a gal a month so it starts to add up. i still use the 3d 520 after the m100 and that works fantastic. being a polish we use very little. 1qt of 520 to about 4 gal of m100 or so. i am happy to pay the few extra bucks for that stuff.

Jim C Method 3.0!

 

[Vanillagorilla]

i have and still think the 3d 510/520 is the best BUT for the cutting i switched back to m100 simply due to the cost. we do so much buffing that the 3d gets expensive for only shaving a couple minutes off the job. we go through about a gal a month so it starts to add up. i still use the 3d 520 after the m100 and that works fantastic. being a polish we use very little. 1qt of 520 to about 4 gal of m100 or so. i am happy to pay the few extra bucks for that stuff.

Thanks for the insight