When to seam seal

S

Steves69LS3

My car is in epoxy
Can i seam seal now and then shoot my poly over it?

Or seam seal now, epoxy over sealed areas then poly?
Thank you
 
Always seam over primed areas, never bare metal. Depending on what you are doing and how original you want it to look you could wait until everything is prepped and ready to shoot. I do that a lot with the 2 part seam sealers. (pretty much all I use these days) If you are using regular old seam sealer you need to plan ahead for the shrinkage and time it takes to dry. As long as you are not seaming over bare metal when you do it is up to you.
 
I do your second option - epoxy/Seam seal/epoxy then whatever your next step is.
 
Thank you my original plan was to epoxy seam seal epoxy over sealed areas then spray poly
 
In addition to Steve's question, I am wondering how much seam sealing I should do. I am doing a unibody car (triumpgh TR7). It is on a rotisserie, it was all blasted, and it got a very thorough coating of SPI epoxy primer this past weekend. I plan to spray SPI Matte Black on the bottom this weekend. Should I seam seal the bottom of the car on the outside before I spray the matte black? Nothing on the exterior of the bottom was factory seam sealed, but it was all undercoated. The interior will get Lizard Skin SC, and I really can't find any gaps in the floors that didn't get sealed up with epoxy primer anyway. My thought is to leave the exterior of the floor and unibody joints un-seam sealed, and I maintain Krowne or Fluid Film oil on those seams down the road. I would be surprised if there isn't existing rust hiding in those 40 yr old seams. Oiling the seams sounds smarter to me than sealing them up. Thoughts?
 
The only areas that have significant rust on the Dodge Ram bed I am restoring had some type of seam sealer or panel adhesive from the factory. I too plan on never using the stuff and being diligent with cavity wax once I am done. That stuff just holds too much moisture. It doesn't help that it looks to me like Dodge applied it over bare metal and then sprayed over it, likely creating rust from the moisture in the stuff when it was new.
 
Kind of resurrecting an old topic...I put down 2 coats of epoxy primer (first time painting, must have gotten lucky because I'm very happy with results). I want to seam seal but I'm not going to make the 7-day window. For painting over, the tech manual says to hit with 180-grit, then another epoxy coat, then next paint stage. I'm not laying down paint, so can I just scuff the areas to be sealed with 180-grit and seal or do I need to re-shoot?
Thanks,
Chris
 
Kind of resurrecting an old topic...I put down 2 coats of epoxy primer (first time painting, must have gotten lucky because I'm very happy with results). I want to seam seal but I'm not going to make the 7-day window. For painting over, the tech manual says to hit with 180-grit, then another epoxy coat, then next paint stage. I'm not laying down paint, so can I just scuff the areas to be sealed with 180-grit and seal or do I need to re-shoot?
Thanks,
Chris
I'm curious myself (rookie as well) , I'll be a couple days past the window so I was going to scuff with maroon scotch bright before applying my two part sealer
 
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