WHAT GAS TO USE WITH FLUX CORE WIRE

Well, if you are doing work on a set bid, in insurance work, extra work needed is called a "supplement," in construction it's called a "change order." Just simply say, "that's work above and beyond what was quoted, and we'll have to charge for it" as you get out your clipboard.

Edit: Also, the more detailed your estimates are, the less free stuff you can be credibly talked into giving away.
 
I am not going to keep adding to the bid, They want more done but not more pay for me. I am like you crashtech, I give detailed work list and they want me to add on work after I get started I don't give my labor and materials away for free.
 
i do a lot of woodworking and run into the same thing when i do auto body work/repairs- people wanting something/more for free. more than once ive said,"let me ask you this: you have a job. youre boss comes up and says,"you do great work and i appreciate your work. however, i want you to do more for less for the next month and buy all the stuff required to do your job. how about taking a 25% pay cut,too?""
some walk away. some "get it."
 
JC please read this thread if you are just starting out doing work for others. Especially Shine's posts. If I'd follewed this advice when I was in my 20's it would have saved me a lot of pain.

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.p...-painter-in-western-wa-state.5456/#post-57917


Never cut your prices on the promise of more work. Never cut your prices because "I'm gonna show the car and you'll get the publicity" or some crappy line like that. Like Shine say's often the busiest Shop around is the first to go out of business,. Hold to what you need to make a living and strive to do the highest quality work you can. Always try to keep improving, once you are satisfied with your work you stop getting better.
 
Much appreciate the help snd now I need more help. My lincoln sp 135 t stopped feeding wire and I am stuped. The roller inside the door is not turning when the trigger is pulled, please help I really need to get this job finished.
 
Have you released the tension roller to see if it turns then? I ask because in the picture it appears to be adjusted tight and if your wire is hung up it won't allow the drive roll to spin
 
I did release the tension and the drive wheel will not work at all, When i pull thr trigger I just get the click and that’s it.
 
Well if it's clicking and getting gas at the nozzle your trigger is making connection so you might look at the drive motor. I'm pretty sure that the white reset button is only for machine thermal overload on those but try it as well
 
Good deal, never thought of that! Nothing to do with your problem but the drive roll has two grooves for two different sizes of wire (.030 and .025) make sure your using the .025 groove for your .023 wire. The groove size is is stamped on the outside face so if you see .025 your good but if you see .030 you need to flip it to the other side. Just making sure you didn't overlook this since .030 or .035 self shielded was used previously.
 
Sounds like you had it set on purge which is used to make sure you have good gas at the nozzle before feeding wire and welding.

Don
 
I believe you need to do as much more to get yourself established. Nights, weekends, whatever it takes, but then put your foot down when you do get to the point of being established.
 
2 cents on mig welding sheet metal. Been doing it for over 25 years. Heat sync the weld spot with copper from behind. Helps in a number of ways. Pulls heat out of the weld which prevents warping. Also allows fixing a blow through. If you blow a hole you can use the copper plate to bounce the wire back into the weld and fill the hole back up. Then stop to let it cool a bit. I have a few made from 3/4 and 1 inch copper tubes with one end hammered flat. The open end can have a wood handle inserted as it will get hot. It will sync heat from the weld point. Clean the surface from time to time so it syncs heat and conducts current.
All the best
 
I have a lincoln welder with flux core wire and I want to use gas to make the weld a little better on body panels, A guy today told me that I can not user gas with flux core wire and another https://100001.onl/ https://1921681254.mx/ said he uses Co2 with flux core all the time with great results. I would appreciate any help you guys can give me.
i've heard many times that FCAW works best with shielding gas. the other day at school, the instructor let me try an FCAW setup, i tried welding with no shielding gas and there was a ton of porosity and there was no slag to chip either. i thought the main point of flux core is portability because you don't need shielding gas, and its basically the wire feed equivalent of stick, but if you still need external shielding gas to work properly, then why not just use standard GMAW instead?
 
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Flux Core process FCAW is designed to be stand alone, hence the flux in the wire. It does not need a shielding gas. Whoever has told you that, does not know what they are talking about. It sounds like what you were using was solid wire without shielding gas. That is what it does when trying to use it without gas. Polarity on the welder may not have been correct either. MIg and FCAW use opposite polarity. One is DC+ one is DC- I can't remember which uses which at the moment. If you tried flux process in a welder with polarity set for GMAW process I would imagine it would not work well. Flux core (FCAW) is a standalone process, it does not require shielding gas. Anyone who tells you different is ignorant.
 
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