What every new painter must read!

your right crash. the whole point is to float contaminates. thinner will just melt them and let them soak into the surface. especially fiberglass.
 
[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;7965]Shine,
I forgot to mention that you have your own section on the consolidation cheat sheet under the heading: "Some tips, pointers and words of wisdom from Shine."[/QUOTE]
I hope you included Shine's "Friends":

JB weld is your friend. [Shine]

Blue tape is your friend. [Shine]

A razor blade is your friend. [Shine]
 
I've always cleaned anything I'll be spraying (that I suspect could be dirty/greasy/etc.) with Naphtha. Is that ok?
 
This has nothing to do with SPI, HOWEVER let me make one thing clear, Urethane reducer is NOT Urethane reducer and why would you try to save $10 here when the materials to do the job with sandpaper and everything may cost you $1500-2000?? I don't understand!

The call, with PPG base @ 90 degrees, I used medium reducer, can't remember the name but its the thinner made for that Brush on lacquer paint, now everywhere i put pin-striping tape the base peels off.
This call in the summer is all too common but nothing a strip and redo won't fix.
Grade of reducer is the most important thing for a good paint job, SPI made the decision years ago to treat our reducer as a no profit item or charity work because we knew how important a good reducer is to the final look and lasting of the job.
 
[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;7965]Shine,
I forgot to mention that you have your own section on the consolidation cheat sheet under the heading: "Some tips, pointers and words of wisdom from Shine."[/QUOTE]

Where can I find that cheat sheet??
 
So...if I have used lacquer thinner on the metal previously (I used it to remove residual seam sealer that I couldn't melt or wire brush off), am I okay as long as I am diligent in using the SPI Wax and Grease Remover to clean the surface prior to paint (following the tech manual for its use)? Or should I just be using the W&G remover for removing the seam sealer?
 
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So...if I have used lacquer thinner on the metal previously (I used it to remove residual seam sealer that I couldn't melt or wire brush off), am I okay as long as I am diligent in using the SPI Wax and Grease Remover to clean the surface prior to paint (following the tech manual for its use)? Or should I just be using the W&G remover for removing the seam sealer?

Barry is referring to using lacquer thinner as a wax and grease remover before painting. As long as you use a W&G remover prior to applying any coatings(primer, base, etc.) then you will be ok.
 
This is without a doubt, valuable information. I can't thank you enough to show my appreciation but, I can support you by purchasing your product for taking the time to help others.

A lot of beautiful vehicles and paint jobs here. Best vehicle painting website hands down.
 
I,m so glade to find this form. I,m a green horn to all of this & there is so much BS out there on the net. This
is just a hobby for me. But with the cost of paint, clear coats, reducers ect I really can't afford ignorant mistakes.

Thank you all for the great advice! Fly
 
Lot of good info here. Wish I had found sooner. Only problem is now I am weak at the knees reading all the possible ways to screw up a paint job and looking back trying to remember if I did any of them.
Rust treatment- had some pitted areas, did I do a thorough enough job neutralizing? Really worked hard at it.
Lacquer thinner- pretty sure I only used on tools, oh gosh I hope so!
Spray can primer- Hmmm...had a couple time where I sanded through to bare metal and was afraid to leave it bare in hot humid Kentucky weather for few days. Sanded it all off when I started back....does that count? Hmmm...also used it as a guide coat couple times.
Etching primer- Nope, not at all
Here is where I am at: Body work complete, polyester sprayed and sanded, coat of epoxy lightly sanded with few spots of polyester showing through, been sitting like that under cotton sheets for 5-6 months will engine being final fitted, knew some grinding, welding and cursing might be involved to make it fit.
Plan was to sand, degrease and apply sealer. Get ready for paint. Really thought I was on the way, looks beautiful but after reading all this I am nervous. Any warning signs to look for while sanding down? Extra precautions? Closest small town has single supply house, a PPG jobber manned by some experienced guys so been following their tips. Although I just found out they can no longer supply Rangoon Red due to lead formulation.
Daniel
 
Lot of good info here. Wish I had found sooner. Only problem is now I am weak at the knees reading all the possible ways to screw up a paint job and looking back trying to remember if I did any of them.
Rust treatment- had some pitted areas, did I do a thorough enough job neutralizing? Really worked hard at it.
Lacquer thinner- pretty sure I only used on tools, oh gosh I hope so!
Spray can primer- Hmmm...had a couple time where I sanded through to bare metal and was afraid to leave it bare in hot humid Kentucky weather for few days. Sanded it all off when I started back....does that count? Hmmm...also used it as a guide coat couple times.
Etching primer- Nope, not at all
Here is where I am at: Body work complete, polyester sprayed and sanded, coat of epoxy lightly sanded with few spots of polyester showing through, been sitting like that under cotton sheets for 5-6 months will engine being final fitted, knew some grinding, welding and cursing might be involved to make it fit.
Plan was to sand, degrease and apply sealer. Get ready for paint. Really thought I was on the way, looks beautiful but after reading all this I am nervous. Any warning signs to look for while sanding down? Extra precautions? Closest small town has single supply house, a PPG jobber manned by some experienced guys so been following their tips. Although I just found out they can no longer supply Rangoon Red due to lead formulation.
Daniel
Now you know why paint jobs are expensive.
 
Now you know why paint jobs are expensive.
Yep, and a lot else. Been building this car for 6 years in spare time. After seeing some other "full restorations" that only took a few months, I decided I need to take my time and do it right, even if it took a lot of learning along the way.
 
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