What Do You Use to hold up window seals?

'68 Coronet R/T

'68 Coronet R/T

Oldtimer
I bought a box of 3M 06349 and it worked okay on really soft seals but this 2000 Dodge Dakota has some very narrow and stiff seals. The tape doesn't have the strength to hold them up.

Thinking I might try wedging some wire under the edge but don't want to risk scratching the paint when removing.
 
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If you are talking about the seals that fit in the window track,, I just pull those seals and reinstall after paint. Easier than trying to tape. Or sometimes I will tape and trim with a razor blade, but that takes as much time as pulling them and reinstalling them.
 
orangejuiced86 said:
'68 are you talking about the seals around the back window of the cab?
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Yes, the windshield and back window.
Chris_Hamilton said:
If you are talking about the seals that fit in the window track,, I just pull those seals and reinstall after paint. Easier than trying to tape. Or sometimes I will tape and trim with a razor blade, but that takes as much time as pulling them and reinstalling them.
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I started taping them but ended up pulling them like you suggest. It is the seals I cannot remove that are the problem. I don't want to pay someone to come and remove the glass.
 
I pay to have the glass pulled. The windshield generally gets replaced because it will likely break on the way out. At our current shop rate this is actually the most economical method. The glass shop I use is fast and reasonably priced.
 
If what you are trying to do is lift the lip on the seal to paint under it, try slipping a length of 1/4" cord under the seal to hold it up. I apologize If I completely missed the point.


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Emil
 
I'm pretty sure that the front and rear glass on that Dakota are urethane set, if it was like the one pictured above it would actually be pretty easy to either rope or remove, but it's not iirc.
 
crashtech said:
I pay to have the glass pulled. The windshield generally gets replaced because it will likely break on the way out. At our current shop rate this is actually the most economical method. The glass shop I use is fast and reasonably priced.
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I normally do the same thing on restorations but I really want to get this job done and out the door.
 
Evil_Fiz said:
If what you are trying to do is lift the lip on the seal to paint under it, try slipping a length of 1/4" cord under the seal to hold it up. I apologize If I completely missed the point.


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Emil
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You are on point. I have done exactly that procedure of tucking rope in the past, but these seals are not as soft as what those in the video are.
Very stiff and only about 1/2" to work with.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
Yes, the windshield and back window.

I started taping them but ended up pulling them like you suggest. It is the seals I cannot remove that are the problem. I don't want to pay someone to come and remove the glass.
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I thought you were talking about the door glass seals.:)

What you want to do on the front and rear is very simple. It's called a "pull off" Tape/mask your glass leaving about a 1/4 inch exposed at that edge/end. When you are finished masking then tape the edge last. When you are done with your last coat of clear, pull the tape at the edge while the clear is still wet. It will leave no visible edge and you need no special tools. Just regular 3/4 masking tape. Just make sure you pull it while the clear is still wet.
This technique saved me a lot of time and aggravation when doing collision repair.

Edit: forgot what you were working on. :) When you are stripping it, I found that weed eater cord works pretty good to stuff under the gasket to raise it. Sometimes you can get some tape to stick to the gasket and pull it up and stick the tape against the glass. Works for a little while. The little 2 or 3 inch brown roloc gasket cleaners work well for getting close to the gasket. I always would hand sand when trying to feather at the gasket when you are not removing the glass. Got to be careful though. If the job affords it getting a glass guy to pull/install them would make it easier.
 
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Not sure if it is applicable to this situation, but someone on this forum recommended this 3M tape for my last project.
It's pretty cool, has a non-sticky edge that slides under the seal, then you peel off the backing and bend it back over the seal/rubber and stick it down. Has perforated sections to help make curves.

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Another thing I would do when stripping and not removing the glass was to first clean the moldings and then slip a piece of 2 inch tape underneath the rubber trying to get the tape to stick and then pull back over the rubber lifting it slightly. Then do another layer to help protect it when stripping. Feather the paint at the molding and prime.
 
After doing the repaint of the Suburban (fully assembled vehicle) I am soooo looking forward to doing the paint on my el Camino, a disassembled restoration. Much easier, at least from a painting perspective.
 
Dean Jenkins said:
Not sure if it is applicable to this situation, but someone on this forum recommended this 3M tape for my last project.
It's pretty cool, has a non-sticky edge that slides under the seal, then you peel off the backing and bend it back over the seal/rubber and stick it down. Has perforated sections to help make curves.

View attachment 19428
View attachment 19429
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Yes, I mentioned that I tried this tape but it is not strong enough to lift the edge of these seals.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Another thing I would do when stripping and not removing the glass was to first clean the moldings and then slip a piece of 2 inch tape underneath the rubber trying to get the tape to stick and then pull back over the rubber lifting it slightly. Then do another layer to help protect it when stripping. Feather the paint at the molding and prime.
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This is what I tried the first time. These are very stiff seals or else as you stated earlier glued in place.
 
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