What could be used instead of melted lead for full rear quarters and hiding seams ?

Outlaw;n78920 said:
When the panel is in place, I cant access it to plug weld. I could do a half ass job of it, but it would not be like it should. Any spot welds would be done at an angle. Thats why I was considering filling the seam from the outside with weld and then using lead or a stranded fiberglass product to fill the void and hopefully avoid the ghosting.

For any mis-alignment in the seam, you would be hard pressed to get any deformity out with the pinch weld flanges left in place. If you truly want to remove the seam, the flanges need to go as well. What I typically do is cut one side, flatten out the opposite flange and trim as needed. Once flat and butt welded you have something you can planish after the fact for single panel thickness with less chance of any ghosting.. As seen here:


Next, we moved on to de-leading and shaving the last pinch weld seam at the back of the car. We've eliminated all of these to get rid of all the dirt/rust traps that we can...


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Removing the excess....


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Getting some gap filler.....


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Flattening out the creases....


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Tacked in place, and test fitting a tail light before trimming our gap filler....


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.....and a shot of the upper seam butt welded....




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Thanks MP&C. I have not ruled out that option. If I choose that option, one issue is....it will remove the flanges and thats where the cab support that runs from the front of the cab to the back of the cab. The dome light also mounts in this brace. Without the flange, nothing to hook it to.
 
You wouldn't be able to do something like this on a structural seam, such as a quarter to roof line where it welds to the inner structure. but it is a good method for panels like posted.
 
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