What am I missing

AH, We see now. Go get a key because it could be anywhere. If you have an ele motor shop around,they will have a ton. HD or Lowes store might have such.
 
It looks to me like the collor is on the wrong side. The pulley should be up against the arbor shaft raised section. The collor goes on the other side, or end of the arbor shaft.

You still need a key since it has been verified the pulley and arbor shaft have a milled slot.
 
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I'll call the shop on Monday. I just never saw a key. Didn't make sense but I've never dealt with this.
 
AAE said:
When I separated the pieces, I stuck a screwdriver through the pulley and hung it on the cage. It's orientation never changed.
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Okay, so does the new motor arbor shaft have a threaded bolt hole in the end of it? Something has to retain the pulley from falling off. The keyway slot and key are only there for engagement so the pulley doesn't freewheel on the arbor shaft.
 
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The pulley must be secured with more than setscrews. Compressors have a very high starting torque in order to overcome the pressure resistance. I guarantee you that the pulley will eventually spin on the motor shaft if secured with setscrews only.

The motor shaft has a key slot. Are you reusing the original pulley? Does it, in fact, have a key slot? Please confirm.

Does the pulley have a removable hub? If so, it is probably a taperlock pulley assembly. These do not use a key. As the face bolts are tightened the pulley is moved onto the taper, squeezing the hub onto the shaft. If this is the case, you can safely ignore the slot in the motor shaft.

Please confirm.
 
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64avanti said:
The pulley must be secured with more than setscrews. Compressors have a very high starting torque in order to overcome the pressure resistance. I guarantee you that the pulley will eventually spin in the motor shaft if secured with setscrews only.

The motor shaft has a key slot. Are you reusing the original pulley? Does it, in fact, have a key slot? Please confirm.

Does the pulley have a removable hub? If so, it is probably a taperlock pulley assembly. These do not use a key. As the face bolts are tightened the pulley is moved onto the taper, squeezing the hub onto the shaft. If this is the case, you can safely ignore the slot in the motor shaft.

Please confirm.
Click to expand...

Very well written, if this is the case ( taper pulley), then his collar is on the wrong side. It needs to be at the end of the arbor to retain the pulley.
 
MJM said:
Okay, so does the new motor arbor shaft have a threaded bolt hole in the end of it? Something has to retain the pulley from falling off. The keyway slot and key are only there for engagement so the pulley doesn't freewheel on the arbor shaft.
Click to expand...
It does not. I'm on the prowl for a key. Answer this for me, does the key need to fill the entire slot or just enough to to lock the pieces together?
 
AAE said:
It does not. I'm on the prowl for a key. Answer this for me, does the key need to fill the entire slot or just enough to to lock the pieces together?
Click to expand...

From one of your posts earlier, you said the collor has a slot in it. The new key should be the length of the collor slot and pulley, or close to it.

Seeing as there is no threaded bolt hole at the end of the arbor shaft, I'm leaning to what was said earlier about the pulley being tapered. If this is the case, I still think the collar needs to be on the end of the arbor to retain the pulley.
 
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If I put it at the end, the angle to the pump pulley would be way too much. When I took it off, there was about 1.5 inch of shaft exposed and the collar was tight against the stop on the shaft. I'm going to the repair shop to see if they have a key on Monday.
I really appreciate you guys for all of the help.
 
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I doubt the pulley is tapered. Rarely will you find this application on 'standard' type's of equipment.
It would only slide so far on the shaft and the shaft would also be tapered or as said,have a mechanical locking system which btw may have a key for the hub/shaft as well with the pulley & hub being tapered and the bolts pulling the 2 together for securing. Much easier style especially on large commercial equipment Having done commercial HVAC for 50 yrs,have seen about every type 'pulley','drive' invented.
The key stock should be at minimum,the length of the hub slot.
Dosen't matter 'which' side the set screws are on but generally toward the motor. More for convince or fitment than procedure.
 
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And,
The 2nd set screw will tighten on the shaft itseld as a secondary means of holding power and should be done Last and only tight as necessary because you are scoring the shaft with it and can make life miserable if you have to remove it again as well as slightly 'lift' the hub from over tightening it causing balance/alignment issues.
 
MikeK said:
And,
The 2nd set screw will tighten on the shaft itseld as a secondary means of holding power and should be done Last and only tight as necessary because you are scoring the shaft with it and can make life miserable if you have to remove it again as well as slightly 'lift' the hub from over tightening it causing balance/alignment issues.
Click to expand...
You're right about the scoring. That's why I stopped until I get more educated.
 
Key received! PXL_20220628_133647042.jpg Now, I have a belt squeak at start up. That clean line is where the motor used to be. But, with the pulley attached, I can't get it back to that point. If I put the motor back at that line will it be next to impossible to get the pulley back on? Any tips on doing that?
 
If I understand correctly......Can you install the pulley then tighten it by pushing the motor back and then tighten down the motor bolts? That's how I've done it in the past. If you have a small Porta power attachment you can push it back that way using the pump as your leverage base.
Or a small jack. Scissor jack might work.
That's the only way I know of to get tension back on the belt.
Some of the guys may have a better way IDK.
 
That's how I did it. I just can't get enough leverage to overcome the tension. Maybe, I'll try wedging a 2x8 between the pump and motor and gently persuade it into position.
 
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