Wagon Progress

Back to the grind, took delivery of the bus with the cracked hood this past Wednesday.


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After removing headlights, I ground out the cracked areas, which relieved the tension and allowed the panels to lay flat again. Epoxy was used between the outer and inner layers, clamped, and let things set up.


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After a couple layers added....


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Left this to cure in the sun for a couple days, then back at it on Saturday.


Ground smooth and hopefully the last layer added...


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Back on the wagon, we needed to close off the back side of the rear seat.. We have some square tubing to use but needed a radius bender. The upper part of the buffer stand looks like it may work. As I've told Mike, everything is a tool..


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Add a welder and a piece of round stock for an anchor...


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First test...


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Four pieces needed...


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All TIG welded together...


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Yesterdays progress.... Apprentice E got the bus bumper end caps removed by drilling out the rivets, and then media blasted the caps so they will be ready for paint...


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We needed some tooling for the next phase of the 55 wagon's interior fabrications, the radius we installed on the rear seat back framework will need to be duplicated onto the sheet metal covering. A trip to Hill Top welding had produced a suitable piece of 4" pipe. The Pexto shear has a t-slot along the front for it's support arms and we'll use this to bolt on a couple angle brackets to support this pipe along the front. A slight gap behind the pipe will allow us to use it as a fulcrum in adding a radius to our panel... Mike worked on adding some end caps to our radius die....


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Need a ground clamp for a standing piece of pipe? set it on a flanged piece of sheet metal, instant clamp location....


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More to come on that....


Meanwhile, our sheet metal panel will also serve to cover the rear bass speaker. Not wanting a grille showing, we plan on using upholstery cloth to conceal the speaker. Rather than a big gaping hole that would more readily show the location regardless, some slots will better support the upholstery cloth. So lets make some nibbling tooling..


This punch will be approx. 3/8 diameter and is made of 4140 oil hardening stock so we can heat treat when complete for better tool life..

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End is formed slightly concave to give a better cutting edge..


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Bottom die gets a clearance hole for the 3/8 punch, then it gets bored from the bottom end using 1/2" bit to within about 1/8" of the top surface. This will allow better gravity flow of any chips passing through our bottom die..


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Then we'll need an exit chute, so a 1/2" angled hole is drilled through the side and a 1/2" plug made to fill the remainder...


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The plug bottom gets chamfered and welded into the bottom die, then a ball end die grinder is used to fine tune the exit chute...


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A "shoe" is formed to hold down the workpiece, as otherwise the punch tends to lock onto the panel after the first punch and raise it in the air, thus preventing any material feed...


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An action video....






Our test slot.... this may work yet!



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Today I got the pipe and brackets that Mike made up added to the front of the Pexto Shear. The top of the pipe is set up the same height as the surface of the shear, so no interference in using the shear. The pipe is 49" long so it can be used for a full sheet if we have enough oomph to bend it. Here the finished product:




Sometimes you get lucky, here's the radius from our 4" pipe as matched to our seat back...


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Also made up some patch panels for my brother in law's El Camino. He brought some parts over that he had cut out, so we fabbed up some new parts, here's a sample...


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More back seat work on the 55. Mike is trimming up our brackets to give us a bit more clearance around the wheel wells so the upholstery can wrap around our panel...


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....and I worked on taking some patterns of the rear corners...


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Transferred the pattern to some 18 gauge cold rolled steel and started some shrinking on the Baileigh power hammer..




Test fit....


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Bottom edge gets hemmed so the upholstery cloth has less chance of cuts...


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A bit more cleanup work, but I'm real pleased with how this is turning out..




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Thanks!



More work on the seat back, a test bend to see how well it matches our corner....





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Then to bend the radius on a piece of 19 gauge for the full width...





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Then to bend down a flange to "hook" the frame....





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The metal is thinned at the bend line using a tipping die to give us a more crisp bend...





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Bent at 90* in the magnetic brake..





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Next we slotted the panel for our 10" bass speaker. This should let out the sound but still support our upholstery material for a more subtle look..





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Then the bottom flange is also thinned at the bend and bent on the magnetic brake..





https://youtu.be/krzfbvw9DV8





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.....and our test fit into the car...





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the hood was reinstalled, all the bits bolted back together, and the rear skirt replaced..

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All together and ready for pick up tomorrow.... No more hood crack!

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Well last night found us carpenterin.... using some 3/4 MDF and some construction adhesive...


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The amp will get mounted on the access cover.
 
Got the drivers corner for the rear seat back tig welded in place and flange folded. Now for the passenger side.




On a side note, officially gave Photobucket the boot as my subscription expired last Friday. Robert isn't paying their extortion fees. Surprised the pictures are still showing...
 
Still haven't set up the new photo hosting, so todays update via youtube. Got the passenger corner all formed up and Tig welded in place for the rear seat back enclosure..


 
Well I think I have google images figured out now, so lets try an update on the wagon.

With the back seat rear enclosure and it's frame both sprayed in epoxy, time to assemble the two together. I didn't want to use hardware/rivets on the skin as I thought it would stay flatter under the upholstery without. Also, with the amp and bass speaker inside the enclosure, we needed something to limit vibration of the adjacent pieces. Our choice is to use some body molding adhesive tape to join the two together.


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The tape is applied to the frame, and then the skin attached on top of that..


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Next, we need to work on our console and the shifter inside of it. We have the console that came with the 2002 Monte Carlo interior, but it has far too much plastic that it didn't belong. In looking at other options, we decided on the horse shoe shifter used on the Chevelle. In conducting a test fit of the cable, we found it's trajectory path was much too straight where it either lifted the front of the shifter, or pulled the bulkhead fitting out of the "tunnel" mockup.


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Shifter lift:



Our solution was to raise the cable exit from the shifter housing higher in order to have a better arc of the cable for entry through the floor. Here a "relocation bracket" has been added:


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Bracket all welded in place, looks like this will work for our shifter, return policy officially void now, but cable path fits much better through the floor:




We also needed to finalize seat belts for the rear seats. These are 12 gauge CRS pieces that are plug welded to the floor pan, 1/2" diameter bolt holding the anchor points for inner seat belts.


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The outer belts needed to be all the way out to the wheel well, and to better "anchor" we made similar 12 ga brackets, this one with a hemmed end to "hook" the pinch weld seam of the floor pan/wheel well, then plug welded in place to the wheel well. Again, a 1/2" bolt will anchor the seat belt:


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While Mike and Jake started the layout of the console.........



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......I fabbed up some bucket seat brackets out of 16 ga CRS for a 37 Ford. These had to be 3" high and only 1-1/2" wide, which was too high for my gooseneck die in the press brake. Chose to make them in two pieces and fusion tacked together using the TIG.


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Just snapped this one for you. Still a ways to go, should be doing some spray outs this weekend so we can pick a green...




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Last edited:
All that i see is letters img in brackets.
Funny how we all work hard yet struggle pushing buttons heh.
I've yet figured out how to post full images viewable when not logged in.

edit- had to edit cause when i typed img in brackets it didnt post.
 
Console fabrication


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Bottom and under dash edges are hemmed, folded flanges will support the filler panel between each side..





Fitting up the corner radius



 
Some sprayouts done this evening to see if we can nail down a color for the green.






Will take another video tomorrow in the Sunlight for the true test.

Color 1: Corvette Limerock Green
Color 2: Land Rover Kosrae Green
Color 3: Audi Azores Green
Color 4: H/K Organic Green Kandy Basecoat
 
Sunlight views in same order,

Color 1: Corvette Limerock Green
Color 2: Land Rover Kosrae Green
Color 3: Audi Azores Green
Color 4: H/K Organic Green Kandy Basecoat




Didn't get pictures in overcast, but these help to show, 1-3 don't show color well at all in overcast or dim/indirect light conditions. As we'd like the car to look green regardless, we're leaning toward the H/K


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We took a short break from the wagon as we were getting set up for a metalshaping class at the shop a couple weeks ago. Here's some highlights..


Our guest instructor this year was Pat Brubaker of Custom Rides in Hastings Nebraska. We focused on minimal tools this year. A largely forgotten tool that is (was) seen in many shops is the arbor press. Pat has developed a die set to use in the arbor press that makes it an invaluable tool to have in your metalshaping arsenal.

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This video shows tuck shrinking, much the same as using the stump, but here using less impact for less stress added to the panel..




Pete Hagan brought some 2002 BMW front fenders to practice with, one having a noticeable dent in the front..


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Here we match up one of the dies to match the crown of the rear of the fender, and try our hand at removing a dent using the arbor press.




It did a good job of removing the majority of the damage, and more importantly, without adding any more stretch. Minimal work at this point would have this ready for paint.


We also discussed various pattern techniques, and the benefits realized with each one. One of the class participants, Laser with a Z, had brought a 1961 Impala front valance to duplicate, as it had many rust issues.


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Some of the rust issues were filled with clay in order to get a more accurate pattern.


Flexible shape patterns show better the amount of shape in the panel, and paper patterns were used to get an accurate read on panel material size.


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The replacement panel was made in two pieces and welded together. Laser did a nice job of welding, note the consistent width in the HAZ for minimal distortion..


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Comparison:


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Jake's project for the class was a replacement for our practice fan shroud from last month.. The rear edge was unfinished, so we aimed to fix that, and also make it out of aluminum to better match the radiator.

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To finish off the rear edge, we chose to add a bead to the edge and a hemmed flange to close it off, keeping the hem flat so as not to interfere with the fan.


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The beads were added, flanges tipped to attach to the baffle panel, and the linear stretch dies in the Lennox used to stretch the correct outer radius.


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We attempted various welding methods to attach the shroud to the baffle plates. The spot welder lacked the balls to make the welds, and TIG spot welds or weld passes seemed to add more distortion to our practice pieces than the precise circle we had rolled would tolerate. So we used some stainless hardware and nylock nuts to hold the parts together..


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Here are some videos of the installed shroud..






Some of the tips and tricks shared at the class, here is a table "extension" for a band saw to permit cutting of crowned panels SAFELY..




Charlie has been to our class three years in a row, and he is a pretty sharp cookie. Like some of us and getting older, he has the unfortunate issue of arthritis in his hands, and finds difficulty in using hand snips. In much the same fashion as the Beverly shears, Charlie modified a pair of right angle Midwest shears to use a handle for easier operation..


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Action video:




Material capacity stays the same, operation just becomes a bit easier, especially for those with arthritis conditions..
 
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