UV clear and curing lamp temps?

B

Bentrustynail

A question to Barry:

What should be the maximum panel temp allowed when using a MW curing lamp to cure UV clear? I don't know if it should be different between coats vs the final coat, I assume not but that would be good info also.

ken
 
With any clear the metal temp is best kept under 130, myself when i use the short wave or the medium i keep the metal no more than 120 max.
 
Missed a part.
Sometimes will let a part air dry few hours than cook, at that point i set metal temp 100 to 110.
 
I cook valve covers in my wife's oven at 120 Deg.:D DSC04827.JPG
 
I bought $200 thermal cam that plugs into iphones, ipads, ipods.
Read my hand at 105F in sun so might've been reading 5 degrees high.
South florida sun last month, day old 5 coats thick universal with retarder & runs.
Paint's holding. Blocked & buffed.

What problems can too much heat cause? Car didn't see this heat till next day.
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JC- your were kidding with that oven pic right?
Still alive if so- u lucky. And lucky wife didn't kill u otherwise. Heh.
 
But solvents seriously can attack your nervous system. That's the biggie.
Doubting you do it often but if so, get used or curbside electric one for outside or a bbq after it's shut off.
That's what i would do.
 
Interesting, I've only done this twice, and each time the windows were open and
plenty of ventilation. But very worth noting. Thanks.
Now my wife has something to explain why I'm like this.
 
Question about baking....

Does this ever cause solvent pop? Curing the clear so quickly? Or is solvent pop entirely from the base not being cured enough?
 
I've never had a problem with solvent pop, but I don't bake in a oven till
it sets up a bit.
I do regularly use a heat lamp right away on base and clear.
I've had a lot of different paint problems over the years but so far
I've not had solvent pop (knock on wood)
 
mitch_04 said:
Question about baking....

Does this ever cause solvent pop? Curing the clear so quickly? Or is solvent pop entirely from the base not being cured enough?
Click to expand...

Solvent pops can happen at any layer of material that has been subjected to too much heat too fast for too long.
 
Good to know. I'm still learning my heat lamp, occasionally I get it too close and overheat things. Luckily, it's only be epoxy, never a top coat.
 
I don't know what the best procedure is, but I use it on epoxy, filler and clear. Base flashes pretty quickly so I don't bother on base, except the last coat prior to clear to make sure all the solvents are out. On UV clear I let the clear flow out for say 5 minutes then put the curing lamp on it till it's "dry", then spray coat #2 same procedure. Then coat #3 same procedure. Recommended by a friend of mine who's used a lamp for some time.
 
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