Using Intercoat Straight Up - No Reducer

Randy A

Promoted Users
I've been using Intercoat clear as my sealer and base coat on turned wooden vases and so far it's been a good solution. One of my challenges is on open grain wood where I need to fill all of the tiny grain pores before I move on to CC. It can take quite few applications of IC before I can get a smooth surface. It needs to be dead flat and smooth since CC won't fill at all. Today I started by simply brushing on my first two coats of IC since it soaks in and I sand it back when done.

Question - wondering if I can simply use IC straight with no reducer or maybe a much lower than 1:1 reducer mix for subsequent applications. I want the first coats to soak in as a sealer so those I want thinned out but after that I need to build up a base coat to handle all of the tiny pits and grain openings. I know I can't go crazy with it but seems a bit thicker would help.
 
thin coats soak in and seal. i over reduce then soak it and let it dry. then start the build up. no need to reduce after sealed.
 
yes i have used it unreduced for this purpose, no problem. just be sure your letting each coat flash until its 100% dry. you dont want to pile up real thick coats. i have never tried to seal big open grain wood 100% with intercoat though. you need to be careful with this as intercoat that is thick and totally dry and hard tends to be extremely brittle. you want the intercoat to fill the grain but be sure to sand it back so its not built up real thick on the surface. if its thick it can crack. be sure to not let it sit around for too long before getting clear coat on it. maybe 24-48 hours. clear coat will keep it from cracking. on something like oak i typically use that clear grain filler that was posted in the other thread first or if its a flat item like a countertop or slab then i will use epoxy.
 
Thanks Jim. I don't run a production shop so taking it slow. Each piece takes whatever time it takes. I'm sanding back with 400 after a couple of unreduced coats and when I get to flat/smooth I plan to stop. I don't think what's on the surface will really be that thick. Just enough to fill the pores.

I'll look for the reference to the clear grain filler... don't recall it.
 
Thanks Jim. I don't run a production shop so taking it slow. Each piece takes whatever time it takes. I'm sanding back with 400 after a couple of unreduced coats and when I get to flat/smooth I plan to stop. I don't think what's on the surface will really be that thick. Just enough to fill the pores.

I'll look for the reference to the clear grain filler... don't recall it.
This one
 
Thanks. Just ordered...be here tomorrow. Amazon has ruined us all. So assuming/hoping OK to use this stuff if I've already got a few coats of IC on and not only good to use for bare wood. If so still have more pieces to give it a try on. Thx!
 
just a note on the filler. that stuff is great and no problems if you already ordered it but they do have an updated version of it with a higher solid content so it fills even better. i have not used the new version. only the one don posted. this stuff is pretty easy to work with. it has the consistency of soft paste wax. its white but dries clear. rub it in with a rag, wipe off excess. on oak you will need to do that 2-3 times then once its dry sand it off the surface and move on with your finish.

 
Thanks Jim, I only ordered a pint so can get the new and improved next time. Working on a pecan piece now and it's gonna be tedious to keep at it with even non reduced IC to fill the grain. I use black Timbermate a lot for fill and sounds similar. Easy to sand back with 400 or a maroon pad and once under the CC or even the IC it's not going anywhere. I use water based black India ink with the black Timbermate to get it as black as possible for fill areas. This stuff says compatible with water based dyes to can use it there as well if needed.
 
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