Universal clear wrinkled

Brandon123 said:
Basecoat tech sheet states to clear after 15 minutes. I'm sure it was atleast 15 if not longer since I had to clean the gun and mix the clear. Any harm in waiting longer say an hour before shooting clear? Like I said I'm new to all of this and trying to learn as much as I can by reading. This was only my second time spraying. I based and cleared a bed that turned out decent didnt experience anything like this during that and it was epoxied, based, and cleared all in a morning
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I leave base overnight. You can wait as long as you want.

Don
 
Tech sheets try to make their products sound appealing to high volume shops. No painter in their right mind would clear after 15 minutes over multiple coats of base unless they could briefly bake it. Check out page 16 of the SPI Tech Manual for the real truth on flash time.
 
Crash
So 30 to 60 is a more realistic flash time? Should it be just slightly tacky or have no tack at all?

As I re read the perfect paint job I think I got my answer that basecoat needs to be completely try before the next coat is applied.
 
Yes. In the refinish craft, time is usually your friend. Products like basecoat have a long open window, so there is only benefit in letting the paint breathe and let out all those solvents. Catalyzed products are different, they like a long-ish flash time but if you wait too long, you will get in trouble. You have to know your material types, know your surface temps (air temps don't always match) and know about reducer selections to achieve an optimal result.

Like I mentioned earlier, it might be a good idea to shoot a piece of scrap metal first just to make sure you have your problem solved. Whatever happened in that pic, it's pretty bad. Not something you want to risk happening again.
 
Maybe I missed it But what base are you using? Like others said have not had this happen before and have slammed the clear on a small part in a rush job. Test panel
 
the only time i have had uv wrinkle was when i shot epoxy as a sealer and did not get it covered enough . where it was thin the base attacked it then the clear lifted it .
i've been watching a lot of post about problems with base and uv . 99% of them the base was shot slick and shiny . way too heavy for base coat .
but we all know how it goes , i've been painting bla bla years and know what i'm doing . i just tell folks not to use spi products and go back to the 100% successful methods they were using so we don't have to hear them bitch .
 
The base is crossfire brand from napa made by Martin seynor I believe. It's quite possible I put too much base on too quick. I tried to sand it down today with zero success its gummy to the point I can use my thumb nail to put it off I'm guessing all the way back to epoxy. So it's too gummy to sand instantly clogs the paper. I'm thinking I may have to do a chemical strip of some type any suggestions?

I agree ill probably end up shooting a test panel. I saved the old bed side ill sand it down and try that this weekend maybe
 
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Ugh, that base is really low end stuff. Avoid in the future if possible.
If you can get all the clear off, you should be able to wipe the base off with reducer. At this point, the epoxy should be resistant to solvent attack.
 
Brandon123 said:
The base is crossfire brand from napa made by Martin seynor I believe. It's quite possible I put too much base on too quick. I tried to sand it down today with zero success its gummy to the point I can use my thumb nail to put it off I'm guessing all the way back to epoxy. So it's too gummy to sand instantly clogs the paper. I'm thinking I may have to do a chemical strip of some type any suggestions?

I agree ill probably end up shooting a test panel. I saved the old bed side ill sand it down and try that this weekend maybe
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Did you use their reducer too? SPI reducer would be a lot better choice too imho.

Don
 
Yes I used their reducer with it. Like I said earlier I had used this exact same setup before without a hiccup. Thanks crash for telling me the old basecoat will wipe away with the reducer. I tried it this morning before work for a quick test and it came off easily might still take a while but much better than trying to sand it off. I only went with that brand because I wanted a close match fairly decent price. It's for a 09 with almost 200,000 miles I just wanted something decent I think I paid 60.00 for a quart plus whatever the reducer was.
 
I have found when using those cheaper lines of paint to wait until the next day to clear to help avoid any problems.
 
Brandon, for low end but pretty darn good & didn't give me problems is ppg omni.
As others said, let it dry overnight or 1st thing in morning (have everything prepped) & clear it after lunch if you got FL heat.
Don't pile it on.
You & friends will be amazed after spi clear's cut & buffed.
 
Thanks Eddief I'll try to find a source of omni not too many places around here mix paint anymore. I'll definitely clear it and let it still longer between coats and lighter coats as well
 
I have seen this many times before, most of the time with black, dark blue, or green.
I must assume everything was mixed and activated right, and what I read, it sounds like it.

First trapped solvents in base or a black base the clear will slow down the curing time as solvents are still going through the clear.

Once the clear is 60 mins old, it structurally can't change much.

Here is what I believe happened.
The base had solvents trapped, and as the solvents came out, the base contracted, and the clear is magnifying the orange peel.
It usually shows up overnight, but some have shown in 2 days.
Most cases have been dealerships where the painter does a black car late Friday and Monday; it's a grapefruit finish.
1500 slick and buff is what I tell all of them.

In your case car needs seven full days of sun before you redo or buff as it looks loaded with solvents
Remember, bases are in the area of 70 to 85 % solvents out of the can.
 
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