Universal Clear sanding and bufffing?

C

CK-2

Promoted Users
I’m in the process of putting the final coats of clear on a car I’m painting. U applied basecoat and then sprayed three coats of universal. Now I’m wet sanding the clear flat with 600 and applying three more coats of clear. Looks good with some minor dust and slight orange peel.

This car is all apart in pieces now. I’m doing a few pieces at a time like this, due to time and it being a big project. I’m blocking out the clear I applied six months or so ago with the 600 wet and putting on the final 3-4 coats. My question is this. If I let it set until next spring before I attempt to block out the final coats of clear to remove peel and buff will it be too hard? Or should I let it set a short while and then sand to remove peel and then set aside and buff next spring? Also what grit should I start with to cut the peel out of these last coats of clear?

Thanks.
 
Is 2000 course enough to remove the peel and get flat? Especially on say 6 month old clear?
 
CK-2 said:
Is 2000 course enough to remove the peel and get flat? Especially on say 6 month old clear?
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Show Mirror finish... if you have enough clear start with 600-800 and work your way up. 2000 is good for dnibbing, thats about it.
 
I have used the trizact discs to remove nibs and a little peel and then buffed using a 3m three step system.
But never went for that mirror “show” finish. But that’s exactly what I’m after with this project.
I had planned on hand sanding with hard oak blocks to cut it flat.
 
I use 1000 1200 1500 2000 3000 trizact 5000 trizact. I have on occasion started with 800. First couple of cuts are dry so I can easily see peel and nibs etc.

Don
 
I’m assuming you don’t want to completely remove all the peel with the course grit?
 
I hand sanded a truck in September and started with 1000, I had 6 coats of clear so there was plenty to work with. The truck was painted with Spi black, You have to be sure to get all the previous grits out or they will show up. Post #7 gives you the progression of grit.
 
Ok. At what point (grit) would I be able to start using an orbital sander and stop hand blocking to progress through the grits without affecting flatness?
 
Would it make any difference if I waited 6 months or so to start the sanding/buffing process?
 
I'm positive that UV will sand and buff in 6 months easily, Shoot Barry a message and I'm sure he can give you more specifics. I sanded UV 2 w3eks after spraying and it sanded and buffed very easy, Good luck with your project.
 
What works well for me, all done wet, 600-800 then 1200, 2000, then switch to the DA (orbital) and 3000 Trizact, then 5000 Trizact. I use the 3000 and 5000 by hand on delicate areas. Doing the final step with 5000 really makes the buffing stage a lot easier. Make sure you have all the previous grit scratches removed before you go to the next grit.
 
danp76 said:
Chris, how many coats are you putting down before you begin this process?
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Dan usually 3 and 3. Meaning 3 coats then sand with 600-800, then 3 more coats. Being that I have done this for so long I know how to remove only what is necessary and not anymore. Meaning I don't get close to sanding through in any area ever. Then start the above process. Usually I'll start with 800. Normally I have very little to no peel so I'm not removing a lot of material.
 
Chris, do you use 800 on both 1st and 2nd rounds of clear? I would think that round 2 would lay out so well, that you wouldn't need to start with 800 grit. Are you using Universal?
 
600-800 after first 3 coats Dan. If it laid down nice then I'd only use 800, if it had some texture I would use 600. Then 800 usually after 2nd. Main purpose of the coarse grit after the 2nd round is to level it and get it flat. Meaning get rid of any urethane wave.
I'll be using Universal on my 71 240Z that I'm working on. Universal will look outstanding doing 3 +3. Most of what I do is Collision so obviously I don't do this procedure with that.
 
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