Trying to dial in applying euro clear
- Thread starter roddo
- Start date
Jimthecarguy
Promoted Users
That's a question for Barry.
I typically use medium activator and reducer in euro, but changed it up with slow reducer on a Sierra I sprayed last night and hung a few curtains.. The change in reducer speed made a huge difference in the flow
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I normally let each coat flash until I can touch the clear on the masking paper and it doesn't string or stick to my glove. But I use slow activator as well, which I truly believe must make a difference in some way.
Hopefully Barry will have the time to set us straight on this,
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
It doesn't in any measurable way. Fine if you want to believe that it does but it's already been explained that it doesn't. What I posted was not a guess. Activator affects open and cure time. Reducer affects flow. How much flow depends on how high a solid clear. Your clear isn't flowing 10 minutes after you apply it is it? Reducer in the moments after clear is applied, activator in the minutes to hours after clear is applied.
Jimthecarguy
Promoted Users
It was 70 in the shop, and I used medium reducer on the first coat and it wasn't laying down as nice as I wanted, so I used slow reducer on the second and third coat. Half hour between coats.
Next time I'm going 50/50 on the medium and slow reducer. I haven't ran euro clear like that since I began using it, 15-20 gallons ago.
My wife said I could be an interior decorator with the length of the curtains
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Or to put it another way 68. The activator is what allows the chemical reaction of the clear hardening/curing. Slow, medium, fast all refer to how long for this reaction to take place. When a clear flashes off it is due to the solvents in the clear not the activator. The solvents (reducer) determine how much flow you have. Flow will vary depending on the % of solids in the clear. Less solids=more flow, higher solids = less flow.
That's all I know to say. I believe if @Barry comments he will back up what I said. Probably can explain it better.
That's all I know to say. I believe if @Barry comments he will back up what I said. Probably can explain it better.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Thanks Chris, that explains it pretty well. So if I understand it right, the activator speed controls the amount of time before sanding would be necessary to add another coat?
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Yes. Essentially it controls the cure time. Why there are different speed activators is for spraying in different temperatures. If you had only one speed activator it would behave differently when you sprayed at 68 degrees versus 95. Using too fast an activator in high temps can get you in trouble because the open window might close between coats if the activator was too fast. Or if you used a slow activator in chilly temps (65) then it would take a long time to cure.
Chemistry is different but think about when you add hardener to filler. It's workable till it kicks over. That is similar to how clear/SS activators work.
Probably not explaining it great, but hopefully that makes sense.
Some of us in the collision shops will coktail the reducers and activators depending on temps and job size. May spray a mirror at 65 deg. and use fast & fast vs a side of car at 80 deg and use Med and slow reducer same with activaors.. I use Euro but l like the production clear for most of my collision repairs so I feel there is no real answer and like some say are you painting or are you a painter.
AAE
Learner
I'm painting.
This is a tough one to answer as when I came out with this clear, I said you decide the solids by reducing and how it drys by the reducer speed, so I have nothing to do with it.
However, activators do play a small part in spraying and curing.
1st example, Andy was with our jobber in fl when it first came out, 95 to 98 degrees, and the jobber wanted to paint the roof of his suburban with fast activator and very slow reducer. I said it sounds like a disaster to me.
The result was the finest job he had ever seen or done, ready to drive in an hour.
I hear a lot that the slow activator is superior
To the others for spraying and flowing, I heard enough to believe it.
Many shops will blend the slow with the fast as a percentage they came up with.
Not to be wishy washing, BUT the key with 5000 is a proper speed reducer or slower for best results. Fast reducer only if in the 60s for small areas.
However, activators do play a small part in spraying and curing.
1st example, Andy was with our jobber in fl when it first came out, 95 to 98 degrees, and the jobber wanted to paint the roof of his suburban with fast activator and very slow reducer. I said it sounds like a disaster to me.
The result was the finest job he had ever seen or done, ready to drive in an hour.
I hear a lot that the slow activator is superior
To the others for spraying and flowing, I heard enough to believe it.
Many shops will blend the slow with the fast as a percentage they came up with.
Not to be wishy washing, BUT the key with 5000 is a proper speed reducer or slower for best results. Fast reducer only if in the 60s for small areas.
I had a job I did about 2 years ago that I shot with Euro, slow reducer, slow hardner. I saw it last week and it pinched up bad on me. I have to resand and polish the entire car. If I use euro again, I will not exceed 4:1:1. I don't know if it was caused by over reducing, but when the job left it looked fantastic. It wasn't a rush job, it was at my place almost 2 months after it was painted. That was the last job I used slow anything on. The 2 jobs after that one I used medium hardner and medium reducer and the gloss appears to have held out just as it was when it left.
I did deal with quite a bit of micro pop on the last 2 cars I did though. Hard to say what the cause was, again probably over reduction. I don't recall that ever happening with UV clear in the past.
As anyone knows on here, I don't rush anything, lol
I did deal with quite a bit of micro pop on the last 2 cars I did though. Hard to say what the cause was, again probably over reduction. I don't recall that ever happening with UV clear in the past.
As anyone knows on here, I don't rush anything, lol
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
For the record, I do not add reducer to Euro Clear except in very rare cases.
The first time I tried it was on this truck hood. I deliberately went slow with my LPH400 and kept thinking it was going to run off on the floor.
Instead this was the result as sprayed, no cut and buff.
I was sold on it from that point on.
The first time I tried it was on this truck hood. I deliberately went slow with my LPH400 and kept thinking it was going to run off on the floor.
Instead this was the result as sprayed, no cut and buff.
I was sold on it from that point on.
AAE
Learner
This is the picture I always think of when spraying.
AAE
Learner
Do you recall what the flash and dry times were?
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
When doing multiple coats the tech manual back then said 30 minutes.
I generally test the clear by touching a spot on the masking tape. If it doesn't string or stick to my glove then I figure it's ready.
Also, you can usually see whether it's still flashing by looking down the sides.
I generally test the clear by touching a spot on the masking tape. If it doesn't string or stick to my glove then I figure it's ready.
Also, you can usually see whether it's still flashing by looking down the sides.
Chevynutz
Slow old timer
Very slick, is that with the silver cap and 1.4 ?