Trying to dial in applying euro clear

R

roddo

Promoted Users
Just trying to dial in my application with euro clear. Current setup sata 5000 rp 1.3 tip, fluid 1.5 turns out, full fan, 30 psi 75% overlap, fast gun speed. 4:1:1 885. 70 degree temp. Tendency to get urethane wave and sometimes very subtle sag will develop. Never had this problem with universal. Usually dont have a problem with clears but for some reason the euro I just can't find that sweet spot. I do love the hardness of the euro for my application. Thinking of dialing it in more on fluid maybe 1-1.25 turns out and increasing psi to 34? Decrease overlap closer to 50% and maybe increasing gun distance? Current distance I usually spray close 4"-5". Any suggestions much appreciated. thanks
 
How many coats are you spraying? Urethane wave usually occurs when you are going over 3 coats. 3 coats or less it's not usually an issue.
Most clears will wave at 4 coats and up including UV.
When I was doing collision and spraying a lot of Euro, using a Sata 5000 RP 1.3, about 1.5 turns out, around 30 at the wall regulator and 75% overlap. I was never concerned with what my air pressure was exactly. I would just adjust till it was atomizing nicely. Gun distance about 4-6". Settings I described you need to move quickly. Your settings sound pretty good, my guess is you are not moving quickly enough. When you are spraying watch for the clear "filling in". You want it to fill in and no more. Adjust your speed to achieve that. Euro flows out some after it hits the surface.
Less fluid and more overlap in general is how you want to spray Euro and most other modern clears.
 
Thanks for the reply Chris. Usually 2 coats. Probably not wave but applying to heavy. I am a "wet" painter anyways. Always trying to lay as slick as a finish as I can. Bad habit. Always on the edge of running my clear .You are probably right on increasing my gun speed even though I thought I was moving fast. Hard to see the clear laying out . I am in charge of a large fleet. Usually spraying Toyota 040 superwhite. Tough to see my overlap and the way clear is hitting panel. On top of that light is not that great at all. Maybe I will try the spray gun light from gun bud?Mostly spray by muscle memory . I did notice the euro stays open very long compared to universal and other clears. Maybe I am pushing it with the 885 at 67/68 degrees.
 
If it's going on too heavy with just 1.25 turns out using a Sata, you are moving too slow. Either speed up more or cut the fluid back further. Or you are essentially double coating because you have more than 75% overlap. Or you are getting the gun too close in areas. Could be a mix of all three. When doing a white color, pay attention to that first overlap pass. Make sure its correct and try to duplicate that. Be robotic, keep the gun parrallel and the same distance from the surface.

Watch this vid of Jon Kosmoski of House of Kolor spraying. He sprays about the same speed as I do. If you are not spraying at least this fast with the settings I gave you are going too slow. At least with the Sata RP. Once you dial it in you'll find that Euro sprays and lays out really nice.

 
What speed activator are you using? I go with the Slow activator as it gives it more time to flow out.
I use a 1.4 tip Iwata LPH and stay about 4-5" from the surface and use a 50% overlap.

Euro is my favorite.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
What speed activator are you using? I go with the Slow activator as it gives it more time to flow out.
I use a 1.4 tip Iwata LPH and stay about 4-5" from the surface and use a 50% overlap.

Euro is my favorite.
Click to expand...
I might be mistaken but activator doesn't affect flow to any great extent. It does affect open time and cure time though. But reducer plays a bigger part in flow than the activator, provided the activator is at least at the rated temp for conditions when spraying.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
What speed activator are you using? I go with the Slow activator as it gives it more time to flow out.
I use a 1.4 tip Iwata LPH and stay about 4-5" from the surface and use a 50% overlap.

Euro is my favorite.
Click to expand...
I will be used Euro over Wanda Base on a Porsche I am refurbing. Temp hear in Seattle area runs a little cooler then many states on the west coast. I'm planning on a 75 deg+/- 5 deg using a medium activator. I will be using my LPH400 LVX WITH 1.4 tip.
Would you still recommend those settings for my environment?
Thank,
Pete
 
crashtech said:
A little bird told me that slow Euro activator has some slow solvents in it that can affect appearance, though reducer is still the main factor.
Click to expand...
Not sure I would be willing to trust anything a little bird was trying to tell me.
Any verification from Barry on this? I just ordered two gallons with slow activator for my GTX.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
I might be mistaken but activator doesn't affect flow to any great extent. It does affect open time and cure time though. But reducer plays a bigger part in flow than the activator, provided the activator is at least at the rated temp for conditions when spraying.
Click to expand...
Open time and cure time are part of the flowing process aren't they?
It hardens as it cures.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
Open time and cure time are part of the flowing process aren't they?
It hardens as it cures.
Click to expand...
Flow happens in the moments after clear is applied. Reducer influences that. Open time is how long the clear is re-coatable. Activator influences that. Along with cure time. Clear only flows for a very brief moment after application. Activator plays no part in that.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Flow happens in the moments after clear is applied. Reducer influences that. Open time is how long the clear is re-coatable. Activator influences that. Along with cure time. Clear only flows for a very brief moment after application. Activator plays no part in that.
Click to expand...
I sanded out a bit longer "brief moment" today.
 
When I spoke with Barry he said the reducer had a greater affect on flow than the activator.

He brought up a story of a customer who cleared a suburban roof in the middle of summer in Florida and used fast activator and slow reducer. He said the customer was happy with the finish...
 
Jimthecarguy said:
When I spoke with Barry he said the reducer had a greater affect on flow than the activator.

He brought up a story of a customer who cleared a suburban roof in the middle of summer in Florida and used fast activator and slow reducer. He said the customer was happy with the finish...
Click to expand...
Interesting!
 
This begs the question, why then are there Fast, Medium and Slow activators?
I have always order slow activator and slow reducer because I tend to move slow and wanted enough time.
 
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