Trying not to mess up

D

Daveb

Promoted Users
I have been reading and trying to remember the process I did 25 years ago.
I stripped my car to metal and sealed with 2 coats of spi epoxy. I did body work and shot another coat of epoxy. After that is where I began to spin my wheels. I shot slick sand and blocked with 180 and a guide coat , I realized my body work wasn’t that great and had to do some more. I spot primed The repair areas and shot spi 2k high build. I am going to block the car with 400 dry (hopefully done by the weekend ) .

After I block with 400 should I sand with 600 on a DA with hook and loop, or block with 600 ? I will be painting the car in spi SS matte black. The roof will be house of Kolor organic green With a clear coat. It uses a black base and I figure the spi matte black should be good. Am I wrong here ?

after I block the spi 2k should I seal the car ? I am trying to paint it all at once , but I might have to do it in pieces... will that be a problem .
thanks
Dave
 
Is the green paint metalic?

If not, you can stop sanding at 400 grit, and painting in pieces will be OK. Others can offer advice on how to keep the car consistent looking when painted in different sessions.

Definitely seal with reduced epoxy. I would think black under a green would be OK, make sure to cover it as evenly as you can so if they green isn't 100% opaque it will at least look consistent! I would put the green paint down first though.
 
SPI matte black is not a basecoat. It is not designed to be top coated. You could use SPI black base coat instead on the roof. 400 is a bit coarse for what you are planning. 600 wet (hand sand) would be ideal. Sealing is always preferable. SPI epoxy would be an ideal choice. 1:1:25%.

Since you are going to use matte black that brings up an issue with painting in pieces. Because the gloss of the matte black is affected by how much activator is used, if you are planning to paint in pieces you would have to be very exact each time you mix the matte black. Very exact or you will have gloss differences in each batch that you mix. Only way I would trust to work aroud this is by mixing it by weight on a paint scale. Ideally you would want to shoot all the matte black at the same time. At least all the outside panels.
 
If at all possible it would be better to do all the SS matte black together. Still need to be accurate with the activator. Don't use the SS black under the HOK candy. Are you sure black is the best choice for under the green? The reason I ask is because the charts show (or used to) their colors over black and white for a comparison of effect. Doesn't mean that the have to be used, depends on the ground coat prior to the candy. Are you using one of their metalic ground coats?
I watched a guy scrap a red metalflake job on a motorcycle because he was trying to shoot red flakes over black because he saw it on the chart that way. Flake is different from candy but just trying to illustrate a point.
Personally I don't care for the HOK candy because it is dye in top coat type clear. It's sensitive to time between coats, raising and wrinkling is possible. Because the candy coats are thick by the time you add clear coats there is too much build up of material.
I prefer to use their dye mixed in clear base (SPI works great) for candy colors. Then after plenty of dry time, clear coat.
 
Thanks for the replies
on the candy green I saw Robert (Mac) on here spray it over spi black epoxy. That’s why I figured it would be ok. It might actually be a little more complicated than I’m ready for. I might have to find a different option on the roof , but that color reall jumped out.
metalman are you saying to mix the house of color with the spi clear ? I remember mixing pearl with a clear 20 years ago. I’m not sure if that is what you suggest.
thanks
dave
 
Daveb said:
metalman are you saying to mix the house of color with the spi clear ? I remember mixing pearl with a clear 20 years ago. I’m not sure if that is what you suggest.
thanks
dave
Click to expand...
No. If you bought the HOK candy that uses their hardener follow their instructions.
What I was talking about was making the candy color (transparent/translucent, however you want to refer to it) using SPI intercoat clear which is a base material and the HOK candy dyes. The reason for that is to keep the material build down. Still have to put clear over it like any other base/clear work.
Just so you understand: real candy job is ground coat, candy color and clear coat. You see the effect of the ground coat through the candy color coat weather the ground coat is solid, metallic or metal flake.
 
Last edited:
metalman said:
No. If you bought the HOK candy that uses their hardener follow their instructions.
What I was talking about was making the candy color (transparent/translucent, however you want to refer to it) using SPI intercoat clear which is a base material and the HOK candy dyes. The reason for that is to keep the material build down. Still have to put clear over it like any other base/clear work.
Just so you understand: real candy job is ground coat, candy color and clear coat. You see the effect of the ground coat through the candy color coat weather the ground coat is solid, metallic or metal flake.
Click to expand...

I think I understand now. I can buy a candy green dye like this one. Mix it with spi intercoat clear ( I would have todo some playing to get the right color I assume ) . Spray that and than clear the whole thing. http://gobigbrain.com/copy-of-iguana-green-candy-color/

thanks
Dave
 
Daveb said:
I think I understand now. I can buy a candy green dye like this one. Mix it with spi intercoat clear ( I would have todo some playing to get the right color I assume ) . Spray that and than clear the whole thing. http://gobigbrain.com/copy-of-iguana-green-candy-color/

thanks
Dave
Click to expand...

Just to be clear the green in that picture is sprayed over a probably silver metallic base. The candy is a green dye, no metallic in it. So if you spray it over a black base it will not have any metallic effect to it. Would look very strange. You would want to spray it over a silver metallic. Some shade of silver. Keep in mind also a true candy job is not easy to spray. Even for a Pro. That's why a lot of guys spraying candy's use a base a very close color to the color of the candy midcoat.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Just to be clear the green in that picture is sprayed over a probably silver metallic base. The candy is a green dye, no metallic in it. So if you spray it over a black base it will not have any metallic effect to it. Would look very strange. You would want to spray it over a silver metallic. Some shade of silver. Keep in mind also a true candy job is not easy to spray. Even for a Pro. That's why a lot of guys spraying candy's use a base a very close color to the color of the candy midcoat.
Click to expand...
Thank you Chris, this might be above my skill level. I might give it a try on some scrap pieces to see how it works out.
 
Daveb said:
I might give it a try on some scrap pieces to see how it works out.
Click to expand...
Spraying small scrap pieces are much easier to get even than a roof. The key to candy on a large area is perfectly even application. The gun must be held at a steady distance and perpendicular to the surface. Overlap must also be very consistent at about 75%. Anything else will end up streaky or blotchy.
 
Last edited:
When using the dye in intercoat I shoot for an ratio of dye to clear so I arrive at the desired color in about 6 maybe 7 coats (max). If the mix is too strong there is more chance for blotches. You know you’re there when the last coat shows little to no change. This takes some testing to get it right. Not a job for beginners.
 
Thanks for all the great advice. I’m going to stay away from the candy and have been trying to find another green that looks good. Here is the car ...
4CC31C98-391C-418F-A242-DB25B6863F1B.jpeg

thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top