• Having site issues? Contact Dub@southernPolyurethanes.com

Triumph Spitfire Restoration Using SPI Exclusively

#1
Hi everyone. I've decided to use SPI exclusively for my paint needs for the restoration of my 1966 Triumph Spitfire. I've got mechanical experience, but this is my first time doing any serious metal work and any painting at all. I've laid down some epoxy so far and while there are some runs and a few adhesion problem spots, I'm incredibly happy with how it is going. I've tried not to skimp too much on my materials and tools, though they are not the best; hopefully my attention to detail, and asking lots of questions, will help me put out a good finished product.
By the way, this is my second year of the <ahem> one year restoration, so you can tell how its going. Having fun and learning a lot, however and I wouldn't have it any other way!

Thanks for all the help I've gotten so far and the help that I will surely get in the future. SPI is obviously a great company and I'm very lucky to have found them!

Cheers,
Chris
 

Attachments

#4
Used SPI Medium Red as my tint for the Raptor Liner on the underneath of the car. As a first-timer for all of this stuff all I can say is...wow, just wow. If the SPI Medium Red made Raptor Liner look this good, imagine how the bc/cc is going to look!! Of course, that assumes I don't mess it up. That Raptor Liner stuff is stupid easy...not like you're worried about runs!

Cheers,
Chris
 

Attachments

#5
Looks excellent, can't even tell it's raptor liner. Definitely some bold stuff! I'm with you straight up color will be awesome, got me wishing I wasn't so far along with the blue in my project
 
#6
Used SPI Medium Red as my tint for the Raptor Liner on the underneath of the car. As a first-timer for all of this stuff all I can say is...wow, just wow. If the SPI Medium Red made Raptor Liner look this good, imagine how the bc/cc is going to look!! Of course, that assumes I don't mess it up. That Raptor Liner stuff is stupid easy...not like you're worried about runs!

Cheers,
Chris
Looks great !! How much paint did you have to add to the Raptor Liner to reach that level of color?
 
#7
Hi, Bossed. UPol recommends up to a 10% tint to get the color, so that's what I went with. I was surprised at how strong it was. I applied using a HF Purple Gun that I drilled out to a ~2.0mm tip, so I also cut it (UPol recommends up to 10%) with some urethane reducer (SPIs). I mixed 500ml so that it would fit in the cup. UPol puts out a convenient mixing table in one of their documents, so I followed that and did about 420g of Raptor, 121g of the hardener, 54g of color, and 54g of reducer.

Chris
 
#11
Shot epoxy on the doors and boot lid last night. Having some pretty good fisheye problems. I think I was putting it on too heavy (still getting the knack of gun setup down). Also, I understand this is due to contaminants underneath? I did hit everything with W&G, but maybe there's something else going on somewhere.
Can I block this out until it goes away and, if I don't reach bare metal, call it good (there will be at least a few more coats of primer (either epoxy or 2K) as I metal work my way up to base coat? Or, should I take it down to bare metal and try again? Thanks!
 

Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
#13
Shot epoxy on the doors and boot lid last night. Having some pretty good fisheye problems. I think I was putting it on too heavy (still getting the knack of gun setup down). Also, I understand this is due to contaminants underneath? I did hit everything with W&G, but maybe there's something else going on somewhere.
Can I block this out until it goes away and, if I don't reach bare metal, call it good (there will be at least a few more coats of primer (either epoxy or 2K) as I metal work my way up to base coat? Or, should I take it down to bare metal and try again? Thanks!
If it was me doing this:
Next day all I would do is wash the epoxy bad spots for any silicone that came to top as the epoxy did its job and mils is very important to epoxy so another reason i would not sand those spots.
Than lay 3 coats of your blocking primer over it and done.
Epoxy is pretty thin, so it looks worse than it is.

Next concern is why did we get these as thy do look bad??
 
#15
Thanks, Barry. I do not have any oil mitigation stuff, but I do have several water-fighting things. I have a water separator built into the regulator followed up by a Motor Guard, both at the compressor. Then, I have a desiccant dryer, also Motor Guard, right at the gun. After painting, I blew down the water separator that is built into the regulator and did not notice any vapor and the beads in the desiccant dryer are still very blue.
My biggest concern was that if I didn't address the spots, they'd slowly make their way through whatever I put over them, like the topcoat, so you comments make me feel better about that not happening. Fortunately, the spots were few, so I'm hoping it's a local problem, not something global, like my air source.

Thanks,
Chris
 
Top