Tips for a show quality paint on a complex frame

[Arrowhead]

Owner wants a show quality finish on the Art Morrison chassis for the '57 I'm working on. If that's not enough it's going to be a metallic grey. It's the same color I've used before and I'm thinking this is going to be very difficult to pull off. I shot two coats of epoxy today and not sure how I'll get a metallic BC/CC on it and have it lay consistent. The tight corners and multiple angled surfaces are just begging for runs and blotchyness. Not to mention it will be impossible to keep a wet edge going. Any tips on how to make this work? Super slow reducer for the base? Retarder in the clear? I grabbed a cheap detail gun today just get the primer done and it worked pretty good but I don't think it's going to cut it spraying a metallic. (yes, I already suggested powder coating but he is set on paint) Have some filler work do do first before painting it. Any tips would be appreciated.

 

[MP&C]

The most visible areas will be the outside and bottom, so paint all the topside and inside nooks and crannies first, then you can focus on the outside and bottom last, where you can pay more attention to those areas.

 

[Barry]

I did one in VW Silver, Deltron years ago and to be honest its easier than doing a side of car, lay first coat wet and don't worry about it and the second coat same way, go easier on third and finale
coat. Activate the baee and slow reducer will also help.

 

[crashtech]

With a good brand of base, it won't be too bad, it's just time and material intensive. Any defects in the layout of the metallic will be partially hidden by the shape of the frame, if you think about it, blotches or stripes tend to show up most on big flat areas. Just use a step slower activator in the clear, and maybe even some retarder, so that you don't have to rush through it. Getting a pattern going that you can repeat without missing spots will help, too.

 

[elwood]

I have done a few frames, not too many, but the last one I did I suspended it between two cherry pickers using 4 400 lb ratchet straps. That allowed me to get it at just the right height and also underneath it. Worked better than I thought it would.

 

[anotheridiot]

why not consider single stage so you can color sand your defects and buff after

 

[Arrowhead]

why not consider single stage so you can color sand your defects and buff after

I was thinking that too. But the possibility of runs is high and that could mess up the appearance of the metallic.

 

[crashtech]

Metallic single stage doesn't lend itself to buffing nearly as well as clear coat. The only reason to use single stage would be to go fewer times around the frame.

 

[Arrowhead]

Guess I never followed up on this. Frame and suspension came out pretty good. I was a little tricky trying to keep a wet edge . For the final coat of clear, I started on the top side of the frame and finished on the bottom. That way any dry spray wouldn't show from below and would be hidden once the body is on. I know cutting a corner I guess, it's a show car - not a Riddler contender.

Ended up doing the whole chassis with a HF detail gun. Actually works pretty good and have used it on some other small jobs since.