TIG Welder suggestions

S

Senile Old Fart

I read a post at Metalmeet.com that showed using 140 amp TIG to weld door skins. travel speed was under 4 seconds per inch with no filler rod used.

The guys results were awesome to say the least.

I am going to be purchasing a TIG to learn this technique.

Looking at the Miller 165 and 180 Diversion machines, but open to other suggestions. Do not care about stick welding capabilites for a machine . just ac/dc tig.
 
I saw the same thread and bought the Diversion 165. The Diversion 165 doesn't come with a foot pedal out of the box, just something to keep in mind. I believe Miller wants about $100 for one? The guy at the local Praxair wanted to sell me a Syncrowave machine, which started a little over $2000 I believe. I passed on that and went with the diversion.

It goes without saying, but the guy who posted that is obviously an experienced craftsman. I will keep working at it myself, since it seems to be the "holy grail" of repair panels. It is much harder than it sounds though... I think one of the keys is his statement in a later post
"This seam had very slight gaps but probably not more then four or five thousandths. "
 
For in position welding at a table I like a foot pedal, but in the odd out of position welds I like the torch finger control.
I wouldn't call myself a TIG welder, as I have never cert'd on it but I have ran one a fair amount over the years. hopefully that will have given me a little head start on learning the technique.
My eyes are my biggest hindrance with welding these days. .023 in the MiG welding sheet metal it is getting hard to see where I am headed, need to find an auto lens that lightens up to 8 instead of the more common 9.

I think a "crutch" to the technique would be the use of a magnet strip like some pin strippers use. Get it set next to the gap at the desired distance and have a nice finger guide to help keep on track. Might eliminate one thing to keep track of while concentrating on weld penetration and travel speed?

The Diversion 180 comes with the foot pedal included along with the torch controller. Miller retail is $160 for the foot pedal, so that does make up a bit of the price difference.
Looking at the duty cycle graph the 165 has a better duty cycle when set at 140amps then the 180 has when running on 120v.
On 240v the Diversion 180 has the same duty cycle.
I like the 120v option as that is what is most available. I do have my shop wired for both 120 and 240 at each receptacle location so when in the shop it would not matter but elsewhere it is a concern.

When I worked at the aluminum rolling mill we had a welder that fusion welded the ends of coils together. It was a device that had a set of parallel hold down clamps on sliding tables.. In between the clamps was a full width shear. Each end was independently sheared, then the 2 tables slide towards each other until the metal edges were under slight compression. At that point the welder positioned itself under and over the metal joint. Another set of fingers then held the aluminum down onto a copper bar that had a small ball milled groove in it, which was positioned under the joint. The welder then passed across the metal at a rapid rate , producing a weld of sufficient strength to pull the next 30,000 lb coil of metal through the 5 reduction stands of the rolling mill. It was a bit difficult to get properly set up but worked like a charm until the shear blades required changing. At that point you had to reset the stops and such until you had that magic combination.
I just assumed from reading that post that his technique would be very similiar to what I described. fitment, alignment, heat and speed are all critical to accomplish the 'holy grail"

enough of this old mans ramblings for now, lol.
(I was an industrial millwright, welder,pipe fitter & hydraulic specialist for 30 years in that mill, then I moved on to being a pipe fitter on construction jobs the last 8 years)
 
i have a 60 watt flood light on a stand. it lights up the weld so you can see. i also use a magnalense so i can see what i am doing.
 
shine;14283 said:
i have a 60 watt flood light on a stand. it lights up the weld so you can see. i also use a magnalense so i can see what i am doing.

60 watts in Texas, I'll need a 500 watt halogen up here,LOL.
I now have a 175 cheater in my hood, next time I replace it I am going to get a 200.
 
i been using the light since i was a kid. hated trying to rely on the flash so i rigged up a welding light that i could see by .
 
I have a manetic based spot lamp on my band saw, should be easy enough to locate on a car, thanks for the tip.
 
I have the Diversion 165, and have had it about 1 1/2 years. I have only used mine a few times and am by no means an expert at it. Mine did come with the foot pedal and the adjustable control on the torch. I think my machine was about $1600 when it was purchased.

Aaron
 
I have a Lincoln Precision Tig 225, works well. I like the AC/DC as I can do aluminum as well.
 
The cheater lens is a great suggestion. For those of you that aren't familiar, it is basically like reading glasses for your welding helmet. They come in the standard size lenses and are very cheap. I just picked up a 2.00 for $7 at my LWS.

As for a TIG machine, I have a Lincoln Squarewave 175 and I love it. The 225 is even better as it has the pulser built in. It's a basic but awesome machine that will weld beautifully, and the stinger for Arc welding is included. I got mine used but in like new condition on Ebay for $1200 shipped. Lincoln re introduced the 175 as the 175 pro a couple of years ago, then discontinued it again. The also had the 185 and the 225 is the latest and greatest. I guess it was kind of like selling a Camaro and a Firebird...competing with themselves.

I had a Miller Econotig too, but it just wasn't practical, as it pulled full current no matter how little you stepped on the pedal, and tripped my breaker at home! The Lincoln really does limit the current based on pedal position, and rarely trips my breaker, unless I'm welding thick stuff for a long period of time. Otherwise, the Miller would be an alternative to the Lincoln. I also never welded aluminum with the Miller Econotig to compare it to the Lincoln Squarewave, but I have welded aluminum with the Lincoln and love it! BTW I started on a Miller so I loves the Blue too! If you are desiring to weld aluminum, then you need an AC Tig, whether conventional or inverter based.
 
Here's one of my better welds and a manifold I was building, I did this with the Lincoln 175 pro its a nice welder for a beginner, it welds aluminum but if you are going to be thicker aluminum a watercooled torch would also be a good investment as the torch handle heats up fairly quickly after a bit of higher amperage welding, but excellent starter unit for a good price. If you can afford the extra the Lincoln 225 would be well worth it in my opinion, Im no expert on these and am very green to tig welding but these are both nice machines:) IMG_5033.jpg

IMG_5040.jpg
 
I do not plan on welding aluminum, and if the neccesity does come up a friend has the Miller 225 I can use.

I bought a Thermal Arc 161STL and am quite happy with it. I will be adding a foot pedal when I come across one at a reasonable price.
This little guy is an inverter, 120/240v dc tig and stick.
I hadn't tig'd since 1998, my old eyes sure aren't the same and for some reason the dam wire they sell today wiggles an awful lot, LOL.
Darn near like learning over, only now I have to also time for the wiggle of the rod .
 
I too cut the rod in half, it still wiggles.
Dam stuff made now days just isnt the same as 15 years ago.
Back then I could hold a full stick and it didnt wiggle near like this stuff does, LOL.

Shine, I do use the .035 from the wire welder as well as some .025 for tiny stuff, which ever is in the gun at the time .
I hate to try and remove a couple wraps from a spool, it seems to always end up looking just like my fishing reels!
 
Senile Old Fart;19863 said:
Dam stuff made now days just isnt the same as 15 years ago.
Back then I could hold a full stick and it didnt wiggle near like this stuff does, LOL.
At our age nothing holds still like it use to.:D
 
Remember when you tig these thin panels the fit up should be tight.. any of these welders mentioned will do the job... the pulse function is a plus to use... do some tests and practice a lot.. if you make a mistake , like blowing a hole learn to fix it.. just more practice...i'm a pedal guy, but in some tight places i have to use the trigger... good luck
 
I use a Lincoln Square Wave tig 200 and I've been learning and getting better at it. I bought it about 4 years ago for $1400 but I know they've gone up over the last coupled years
 
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