The proper way to wipe down a vehicle prior to paint

Found this. Maybe a little too particular but anyway...
 

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I've written this a while ago but never posted it. Maybe this will help some folks and help to clear up any confusion someone may have over how to wipe something down.

The proper way to wipe down a vehicle prior to paint.

First before the wipe down stage you want to have as clean a vehicle as possible. In collision repair this isn't always possible, but with Restoration type work it is and should be considered mandatory.
After your final sanding when you have your vehicle or part ready for paint, the first step should be a good detergent wash with Dawn or similar dishwashing soap. Dawn has always been my favorite. Wash all panels or parts to be painted thoroughly.
You want to get any sanding scum, dirt or whatever, cleaned form the panels. While you are doing this concentrate on getting all the nooks and crannys wet trying to wash away any dirt, accumulated dust etc. If you are doing just a re-paint this is especially important as what is being painted is where the majority of trash comes from, not the air, floor, or you, but the vehicle or part itself. One area that is especially bad is the underside lips of quarter panels and fenders. Inside bottoms of doors are another area. Basically get the vehicle or part as clean as you can including the areas that are not getting painted.

Once you have done this and the vehicle has dried (sitting in the sun for several hours is the best way) then the next step is to blow it off with compressed air. If you are painting in a booth this should be done outside the closed booth to guard against any areas that you may have missed blowing trash into the air and the booth. I've always done it lightly just to get any dust that may have accumulated on the vehicle while sitting in the shop drying.

Once it's dry and blown off move into the booth or your painting area. After masking and when you are ready now finally we get to how to wipe it down. Now is the time to put on your nitrile/latex gloves. This is not an option, your hands will contaminate the surface, plus the gloves protect your skin.
You need to use a dedicated paint wipe. Not paper towels, not microfiber cloths, not blue towels from the HomeDepot/Lowes. Dedicated Paint Prep Wipes that you purchase from your local jobber or a trusted source online. Only use "name brand" wipes. If in doubt google the names. I'll list some of the ones I like later in this thread. Yes they are more expensive but a whole lot less than redoing something because of contamination. Plus after you wipe a car down you can re-use them for other things. (wiping up a spill, cleaning tools, etc etc)

I always favor a 2 step process. First I will pull off several wipes and fold them neatly (flat). My first step is always with a waterbased cleaner like SPI 700. Spray it on the panel or area taking care to completely cover the area then wipe that area off. Move onto the next area. Change your towels often.
Second step is to use a solvent based W&G remover like SPI 710 or PPG DX330. Personally I find 710 a little too quick (sorry Barry) so I like DX330 cause it evaporates slow. I do it the old fashioned way. I'll take several wipes fold them flat and then take several more and fold them flat again so I have 2 sets of wipes. I then soak one set with W&G remover and grab the dry set in my other hand. I then proceed to methodically wipe down one section/area, then with the dry wipes while it is wet wipe down that same area. Solvent based W&G remover is designed to be used this way. It lifts the contaminates off the surface and the second set of wipes removes the contaminates. Change your wipes fairly often and do the entire vehicle or part. When finished give it enough time to completely dry. If you are in a booth now is the time to turn your fan on. If you are not wait 30 minutes before proceeding with things.

Hope this helps someone.
Chris,
Thanks for taking the time to document the process. Didn't know about water-based cleaner before solvent based. Just curious why use the water-based first?

Thanks
Pete
 
Chris,
Thanks for taking the time to document the process. Didn't know about water-based cleaner before solvent based. Just curious why use the water-based first?

Thanks
Pete
Water based is better at cleaning silicones and "dirt". Use it first because you get the bulk of the cleaning done with it. Solvent based will remove any residual road tar and other things the water doesn't. Consider it the final cleaner. If all you have is one or the other, you can still get it done. Just a good idea to use both.
 
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