Spraying engine bay and chassis with Epoxy Primer only

Happy Thanksgiving!
Looks like I might be painting this afternoon if I can finish prep in the next three hours.

A few questions.

1) Should I use my 1.4 or 1.8 tip on my HVLP gun to spray the 1:1 Epoxy mix?

2) Is it okay to spray over bare metal flash rust (like one hour old flash rust)?

3) What's a better surface to spray on.... 20-40 blasted surface or 80 grit sanded surface?

4) Will 60 grit sanded surface show sanding marks through the epoxy?
 
My answers below...
ATXbronco said:
Happy Thanksgiving!
Looks like I might be painting this afternoon if I can finish prep in the next three hours.

A few questions.

1) Should I use my 1.4 or 1.8 tip on my HVLP gun to spray the 1:1 Epoxy mix?

1.8

2) Is it okay to spray over bare metal flash rust (like one hour old flash rust)?

Yes

3) What's a better surface to spray on.... 20-40 blasted surface or 80 grit sanded surface?

Both are fine imho

4) Will 60 grit sanded surface show sanding marks through the epoxy?

60 or 600? I don’t think epoxy will fill 60 grit scratches.
Click to expand...
 
UGHHhhh but I'm out of time! I'm doing this in my driveway and it will be dark in exactly two hours and I still have a little way to go on the chassis sandblasting.
Geez, tonight is the last 65F+ night for the foreseable future. :(

I'll have to figure out what to put on the chassis to prevent rusting and then come back to this if we get any other warm nights this Winter.

I think I have a tiny bit of Ospho left.
 
That's a bummer, time always slips away so fast when on projects like these. I was really hoping you would get to use the FLG5 and could share your thoughts on it. That's the gun I got as well, first time sprayer for me too.

I think you'll be fine without any rust treatment if you're going to be able to spray in the next few months. Just knock off any flash rust later with scotchbrite and W&G remover. I could be wrong though, best leave that to the guys here that know what they're talking about!
 
I promise to post my results when I'm all done!

Took a video of my progress. Still have lots of bead blasting to do under the frame.
 
elwood said:
Runs are a fluid adjustment
Click to expand...
You mean like instead of 1:1 I could do 1 part to .7 parts activator?
I was scared of messing with the formula.

But wow, some of the runs laid down on their own.
I know they won't all do that because I simply sprayed too heavy and will pay the price.

Next time I practice on something larger than an oil can.
Like, something 2' x 2' in size. The oil can was just too small for me to get a feel of how to spray.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20201210_171945.jpg
    IMG_20201210_171945.jpg
    240.2 KB · Views: 198
  • IMG_20201210_172001.jpg
    IMG_20201210_172001.jpg
    232.4 KB · Views: 173
  • IMG_20201210_173323.jpg
    IMG_20201210_173323.jpg
    237.5 KB · Views: 189
  • IMG_20201210_173425.jpg
    IMG_20201210_173425.jpg
    169.7 KB · Views: 190
  • IMG_20201210_173435.jpg
    IMG_20201210_173435.jpg
    256.6 KB · Views: 179
  • IMG_20201210_173454.jpg
    IMG_20201210_173454.jpg
    212.6 KB · Views: 201
With a 1.8, the fluid adjustment on the gun needs to be turned in. Turn the fluid knob in to where the trigger will not move the needle, then back it out 2 full turns. Bump your pressure up to around 28psi, then spray your test panel the speed you are comfortable with, at 5-6 inches away from the surface. Look at your panel and see if it looks too dry or too wet. If it looks too dry, back the fluid knob out 1/2 turn and try again. If it looks too wet like it might run, turn the knob in 1/2 turn and try again. My guess is the fluid knob being wide open caused the runs. Don't mess with the mixture ratio.
 
texasking said:
With a 1.8, the fluid adjustment on the gun needs to be turned in. Turn the fluid knob in to where the trigger will not move the needle, then back it out 2 full turns. Bump your pressure up to around 28psi, then spray your test panel the speed you are comfortable with, at 5-6 inches away from the surface. Look at your panel and see if it looks too dry or too wet. If it looks too dry, back the fluid knob out 1/2 turn and try again. If it looks too wet like it might run, turn the knob in 1/2 turn and try again. My guess is the fluid knob being wide open caused the runs. Don't mess with the mixture ratio.
Click to expand...
The fluid knob was one full turn out. I'll play with adjusting that next time, thanks!

Wait no, I think it was one full turn *IN. Clockwise.
 
ATXbronco said:
The fluid knob was one full turn out. I'll play with adjusting that next time, thanks!

Wait no, I think it was one full turn *IN. Clockwise.
Click to expand...
Yep, I had followed this guy's tutorial.
  1. Open the valve all the way out.
  2. Squeeze the trigger and hold it in.
  3. Then turn the valve clockwise until it won't go any further.
  4. Then release the trigge.
  5. And turn the valve clockwise one additional full turn.
Is that the correct lingo? "One turn out" being one turn clockwise from wide-open?
I would have thought that should be "one turn in". lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top