Sprayed Epoxy over body work and had a reaction suggestions

L

Lane Stovall

I sprayed epoxy this morning over my body work this morning. I did the final clean with 700 WGR and let it flash for over 30 minutes. My hood was the only part of the car that was bare metal. The rest of the care was epoxy or filler. I had some sort of a reaction that I have never had before. THe hood was the worst so I stopped on it but proceeded with the rest of the body. I ended up with small craters on most of the top portion of the car. I am scratching my head as to what happened. The hose and regulator/filter are new. That might be a source of contamination. The blottle i put the WGR in was new so I changed it to one that I have had no issues with. I eneded up wiping the hood down so I will try again. My plan was to do a light block demib and then regular 2k. What should I do? will the 2k cover this mess? suggestions..
 

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It reacted immediately on the hood. I didn't spray any differently than I have in the past. The pictures are after the second coat. I went a little heavy in that area.
 
What is your process on cleaning with WG remover? I read your first post again and it appears you wiped on WG remover and left it to flash off. If this is correct, you've found the problem. this is a slow evaporating solvent that is meant to float impurities to the surface where you can use a separate rag to wipe them off. If you just sprayed it and left it to flash, every impurity has floated to the surface where it did what it's going to do, cause fisheye.. Think wax on wax off...
 
I sprayed on WGR and wiped it off with a clean lint free cloth until no residue showed. I will spray the hood this evening. The big question is. What is the best way to proceed? Should I try to block the worst panel and test a coat a 2k to see if it covers?
 
Thanks. This is probably the coolest temps I have applied epoxy. Shop was about 70 at the time. I will heat it up a little more next time. My thoughts are to block with 220 then shoot 2k. Maybe reduce the first coat to help cover?
 
most likely its from being sprayed too heavy BUT you really have to watch it with 700. while it cleans good i have found the water can get down deep into sanding scratches on paint, primer or bare metal and it takes a long time for it to dry out. the panel will look dry but their is still moisture present. this will cause all kinds of weird looking flaws in the epoxy like what you had. 30 min is a pretty good flash time but it really depends on the temp and humidity level. here in jersey, in the summer on a 90+ humidity day when its cooler, the panel may stay wet all day long. its just too humid to flash the water part of the 700 off. if i need the epoxy to look good i will never use 700 under it. i have far less epoxy issues when i skip the 700 and use the 710 instead. not saying this was your issue. just throwing that bit of info out there.
 
Just curious.....Have you used the same batch of 700 WGR before with no problems?

Mike
No this is actually the first time I have used 700. I wanted to make sure I was doing all I could to avoid issues.
 
most likely its from being sprayed too heavy BUT you really have to watch it with 700. while it cleans good i have found the water can get down deep into sanding scratches on paint, primer or bare metal and it takes a long time for it to dry out. the panel will look dry but their is still moisture present. this will cause all kinds of weird looking flaws in the epoxy like what you had. 30 min is a pretty good flash time but it really depends on the temp and humidity level. here in jersey, in the summer on a 90+ humidity day when its cooler, the panel may stay wet all day long. its just too humid to flash the water part of the 700 off. if i need the epoxy to look good i will never use 700 under it. i have far less epoxy issues when i skip the 700 and use the 710 instead. not saying this was your issue. just throwing that bit of info out there.
Thanks Jim. This is my first experience with 700. Not that I am blaming the product but my inexperience.. Ihave worked in a automobile manufacturing paint shop for 24 years. We used alot of IPA for cleaning when needed. So I had been using 90% IPA 10% deionized water in the past with no issues. Live and learn,,, Now that I have this. How would you recommend I proceed? I painted the hood last night, Warm shop, 2 light coats. No 700 much better but still ha some fish eyes on one side..
 
When I have to spray a part out on the shop floor, I will do two light-medium coats back to back instead of one wet coat. This seems to help avoid issues like cratering, imo. I'm not saying to put it on dry because that would affect adhesion, but that very brief flash between two lighter coats seems to be helpful with the epoxy in an less controlled environment.

I can't comment on the #700 because the humidity is really never that high here.
 
When I have to spray a part out on the shop floor, I will do two light-medium coats back to back instead of one wet coat. This seems to help avoid issues like cratering, imo. I'm not saying to put it on dry because that would affect adhesion, but that very brief flash between two lighter coats seems to be helpful with the epoxy in an less controlled environment.

I can't comment on the #700 because the humidity is really never that high here.
Thanks a lot for the information. I am in the process of blocking the epoxy with 220. I’m able to get the craters most of the way out. I’m a little nervous wondering how far I should go trying to minimize them before 2k. Do I need to get them all the way ou?
 
More than likely epoxy too thick where craters showed up. It's strength is in the fact that it is not thick and not made up with a bunch of fillers that make it thick. Turn in the fluid some and spray it like a basecoat and you should be fine. Occasionally I get craters and I've been using it about 8 years. SPI makes the best epoxy out there. I always sand any defects out before respraying after it's had time to dry. Hope this helps.
 
More than likely epoxy too thick where craters showed up. It's strength is in the fact that it is not thick and not made up with a bunch of fillers that make it thick. Turn in the fluid some and spray it like a basecoat and you should be fine. Occasionally I get craters and I've been using it about 8 years. SPI makes the best epoxy out there. I always sand any defects out before respraying after it's had time to dry. Hope this helps.
I appreeciate it! I blocked the entire car with 220. Trying to decide if I want to reapply epoxy or go with 2K..
 
Just to update. I shot 2k on the trunk lid today. It covered what was left of the craters, I will shoot the rest of the body in 2k tomorrow evening. Lesson learned.. Dont shoot epoxy too heavy. I also learned that I had a slightly bent air cap on the cheap gun I was shooting the primer with. I noticed it wasnt atomizing right. When I reshot the hood I used my SATAjet that I usually shoot base with. Big difference! Thanks for everyone's input, Hopefully I will have color on the project soon.
 
Thanks Jim. This is my first experience with 700. Not that I am blaming the product but my inexperience.. Ihave worked in a automobile manufacturing paint shop for 24 years. We used alot of IPA for cleaning when needed. So I had been using 90% IPA 10% deionized water in the past with no issues. Live and learn,,, Now that I have this. How would you recommend I proceed? I painted the hood last night, Warm shop, 2 light coats. No 700 much better but still ha some fish eyes on one side..
Sorry for the late reply....I was away.
I use 90% IPA and window cleaner for years after a solvent based W&G and have excellent results.
I have always used a solvent base W&G remover until I tried the SPI #700 and ran into issues looking exactly like what you experienced and yes, I let it dry for hours before proceeding. Maybe I got a bad batch of 700...I don't know....I remember Barry mentioning an altered batch at one time (if I do a search I'm sure I can find that thread). The one I have has a dark yellowish tint to it. I went back to a solvent W&G and if I decide to use a water base W&G on certain areas I use Rustoleum water based.

Mike
 
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