SPI's best kept secret!

Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
SPI’s Best kept secret!
I made the 5000 clear for production shops but I did not want a normal run of mil production clear
That is used 90% of the time doing insurance work.
So, I converted the universal to a 4:1 mix that production shops are using, and the result was I had no room for reducers and at 4:1 is about low 70’s in solids, not sprayable.
So reducer must be added, 4:1:1 or 4:1:1 will be high solid as well as 4:1:1.5.
4:1:2 a nice medium solid and 4:1:3 used by shops for used car work for cheapness.
Remember reducer is cheaper than clear so more reducer the less cost.
The other thing I did to save money was change the blend of the ISO in the activator so the clear would act like the majors and cure at a faster rate, so instead of unlimited buffing like the Universal clear you have about two weeks.
Then some companies came out with a 30-minute buff clear, all the ones I have seen are very low solids usually in the 28-32% range so they dry fast. The calls started after some of the shops would see cars they did 6 months ago and have a panic attach and then stopped using.
So, I came out with the fast activator for this reason and what a seller it has been.
4:1:1 with slow reducer buff in 45 minutes.
4:1:2 with slow reducer buff in 30 minutes.
The real advantage of this clear is the painter decides the solids for each job and the painter decides the dry time by the speed of reducer used, I no longer am deciding for the painter as all conditions are different and the painter knows what he needs.

I was called last night by a shop on a tech question and after he was telling me that he is stuck doing work for a relative that owns a used car lot and all he wants is cheap with the promise all you need to do is make the paint last for 30 days so I can sell it.
He said at 4:1:3 if doing a quarter and door he lays first coat like he wants it to look and if clean and does not need buffing he stops and does not do a second coat.
His cost $8.00 comes out to by the quart with a once coat application he said.

Kinda got me to thinking, this clear needed explaining as what he said I have heard many times over the years.
 
I know I'm not the shiniest gun in the cabinet, but, this clear has always duped me.
Is the fast activator with the 885/895 good for any temp or the standard 70deg?
Would the buff times be the same with the slow act and same reducers at a higher temp? This time of year it's not uncommon for panels to be 100+.
Sounds like Polar is unnecessary. I've used it in the 5000 then baked and it was nearly impossible to buff.
And, I'm just not smart enough to remember to wipe off the spout. Those lids get glued on! Even trying to break the bond with a screwdriver can pull the entire lid off.
I'd love to use it!
 
Maybe I should be using the Fast activator with Euro, in my experience the Euro with Normal has to wait longer to be handled than Universal with Normal.
 
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Maybe I should be using the Fast activator with Euro, in my experience the Euro with Normal has to wait longer to be handled than Universal with Normal.
I've said that for a long time! Always thought Universal was faster.
 
Fast activator can be used in any temp if tou are using the proper speed reducer.
Only reducer decides flash time as activator only decides curing rate.
 
Of course if you want a real cluster ...
At 90 degrees use fast activator and fast reducer, it might dry in a week
And have more white spots than a panda.
Reducer speed for temp is key!
 
Fast activator can be used in any temp if tou are using the proper speed reducer.
Only reducer decides flash time as activator only decides curing rate.
This blows my mind. I've been misusing it . This understanding may really change things for me. So, the fast with 895 at 85-90 degrees, what is the estimated time to buff?
 
Buff time is based on how mixed not speed of reducer.
4.1.2 30 mins
 
4:1:2 medium activator with slow reducer is what i been mixing lately been spraying it at any tempeture lays really slick perfect day to nigh difference if i compare to hiw i as mixing it before 4:1:2 medium activator and medium reducer even with faster activator and slow r ducer works perfect for a fender or bumper reducer is the key with this clear..
 
Is the 2100 Production clear similar to 5000 chemically? When I use the Euro 5000, I usually mix it 4:1:1 with great results.
 
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