SPI shopping list....Is it complete ?

E

EMW

This is list of products I plan to order from SPI.
Am I missing anything that I will need to go from bare metal to topcoat. (Other than experience?)

1. One gallon Waterborne wax and grease remover. #700-1
2. One gallon Premium W&G remover. #710-1
3. One gallon epoxy grey. #6610-1
Is this the best color to use under a SS Colorado Red color?
4. One gallon Epoxy activator. #6700-1
5. One gallon Urethane grade reducer. #SP 885-1
6. One gallon 2K regular grey primer. #6520-1
7. One quart regular build activator. #6501-4
8. One quart Plastic adhesion promoter. #600-4
Just in case I need it. Have a bit of plastic on the truck.
Anything else ?
 
Seeing that you are in Florida, your climate is similar to mine. This time of year, 925-4 retarder is almost a necessity. Used in your primer, it will prevent the dry overspray you will get from it drying so fast, same with your topcoat. To me, the turbo primer seems to lay down a little better in the heat, but they both will work. The color choice of primer will be fine. Looks like you have it covered. Too bad Barry doesn't sell patience in a can, it's probably the most important ingredient to a successful paint job:)
 
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texasking said:
Seeing that you are in Florida, your climate is similar to mine. This time of year, 925-4 retarder is almost a necessity. Used in your primer, it will prevent the dry overspray you will get from it drying so fast, same with your topcoat. To me, the turbo primer seems to lay down a little better in the heat, but they both will work. The color choice of primer will be fine. Looks like you have it covered. Too bad Barry doesn't sell patience in a can, it's probably the most important ingredient to a successful paint job:)
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And, 895 reducer.
 
10-4 on the 925-4 Retarder and the 895 Reducer. I will go with the Turbo primer if that will produce a better paint job. I will need all the help I can get.

I wish I would have found this forum before I spent quite a few hours on body work and spraying 1K primer over 2/3 of the truck. Everything is coming back off and starting from scratch. After doing a lot of reading on this forum, I feel like I have a direction to go now instead of just winging it.
Should make things a lot easier. Thanks for your help and I'm sure I will have many more questions.
 
This really is the only forum to be on. You'll find people that want to help you. If you really get in a pickle, Barry is usually available to help. He does have off limit hours though.
Grab a beer and peruse each heading. Most questions have been asked 100x, and that's just by me.
 
Would it be a good idea to go with the black turbo primer so I can see when/if I have sanded thru to the grey epoxy ?
 
It's not that the turbo primer will produce a better paint job, it just seems to lay down a little better in the heat for me, especially on large areas. The regular build primer is a great product and both sand really nice. Most of it ends up on the floor, anyway. I don't know what gun you will be using, but these primers like a gun with a big hole. I use the 2.3 from northern tool ($40} and move pretty fast. That is a good point about the black primer, and I do it often. There is a white powdered guide coat available for use over the black primer that works pretty well.
 
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I know even less about spray guns than I do paint. I am using a Pistola SP33000 LVLP gun for now. I sprayed the 1K with a 1.7 tip that came with it. Also came with a 1.3 and 1.4 tip. I was having problems until I took the little strainer screen off the gun that is below the cup. I can try this one and if no luck I'll pay Norhtern Tool a visit, unless you think I'm wasting my time with the 1.7 tip ? Glad you mentioned guide coat cause what I have is black. Maybe use black epoxy and grey Turbo primer ? Might make the paint look a little darker but in Fla. in will fade fast. Another question for ya, I am sure I will end up with some runs on the SS top coat. Can runs be fixed on a single stage paint ? A guy at work told me they couldn't be.
 
I'd really suggest putting some Universal or Euro over the SS .
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Agree, I have been thinking about a clear coat for awhile. I bought SS cause I figured less of a chance of me screwing up (Less coats of paint).
But now that I've learned I will need spray a few separate coats before I even get to the top coat...maybe have a good enough handle on spraying to do a clear coat. Would probably look a lot nicer.
 
I don't know a lot about SS but I do know that what I did use, the manufacturer said it will chalk up in 6 months. So, I put Euro on it and it still looks good 3 years later.
 
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Whose red ss are you planning on using? Even the cheap nason white ss on parts of my work truck or the black bedcover on my personal truck is holding out pretty decent. Red pigments however are among the first to fade with constant sun exposure. Look at worktrucks painted ss red, so if not a good brand such as SPI , I'd clear over.
What's the use of truck, daily driver in sun or part time mostly garaged?
On primer color under red, grey helps it to cover a hint quicker, but white makes the red pop more vibrantly.
This time of year you want the slowest activators for everything, as well as likely really wanting to use some retarder. At least have it on hand. It's also great to prevent blushing in dampness as well as dry spray or solvent popping.
You only need ad pro if you sand down to a raw plastic . if you're able to keep any base paint or primer you don't need to use.
 
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I have Nason Ful-thane SS "IB". Looks like I need to clear it ? The cost wasn't cheap. (LOL) I will be keeping it covered and not driving much.

EDIT: Is Nason considered cheap paint ? If it is, I won't use it on my truck. I'll get some different paint for the project and find something else around here to paint red with it.
 
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If covered & not driving much , should be ok. Seen a lot of different answers & opinions on Nason. It is owned by dupont for a while now & it will polish to a show finish, Just not as durable or as good of a shine level as something better.
There is a red, medium red , & dark red here in SS.
 
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Glad to hear it should be ok. Already ruffled my wife's feathers when I told her I was going to spend another $500.00 or so on epoxy, etc. Unfortunately I already bought the top coat before I knew about SPI. Main thing I'm worried about right now is getting old paint and 1K off and get some epoxy on it. If the top coat fades out in a few years I can re-top coat knowing I will already have a good foundation below it. Will call SPI tomorrow and order what I need . I never dreamed there was so much learning involved when I started this project. Almost overwhelming.
 
EMW said:
Glad to hear it should be ok. Already ruffled my wife's feathers when I told her I was going to spend another $500.00 or so on epoxy, etc. Unfortunately I already bought the top coat before I knew about SPI. Main thing I'm worried about right now is getting old paint and 1K off and get some epoxy on it. If the top coat fades out in a few years I can re-top coat knowing I will already have a good foundation below it. Will call SPI tomorrow and order what I need . I never dreamed there was so much learning involved when I started this project. Almost overwhelming.
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People watch these car restoration shows and get the idea that it can all be done in short order. Then, they quickly learn it's a lot more work and expensive than they ever imagined.
 
True...but I am thinking the end result will make it all worthwhile and something to be proud of.
 
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