SPI Epoxy Torture test!

Its not just acid, its phosphoric acid, which is mild in the acid family. The stronger acids are very corrosive, so you want to stick with something strong enough to do the job, but not strong enough to be corrosive, and phosphoric fits the bill very well----as long as you get rid of the residue. Do a little search on the site.


There is a lot of water in it that evaporates and leaves the residue, so you have to stay after it to keep it wet. If you need it to stay wet on a vertical surface, you can cover it up with cellophane wrap and that will extend the time between rewetting it.

Some are reusable like Master Series, but are more expensive, and most are not reusable, like Ospho, Evapo Rust, and Prep and Etch

It works great after blasting to make sure all the rust is gone, and water wash and rinse after phosphoric is a lot safer than wash and rinse after blasting.

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That won't rust any quicker than any other part of the car.
 
How long do you keep it wet with acid? What is the best acid to get price/value that works the best?
 
Keep it wet until the rust is gone. I use a 90* pick to scratch the pits, if the acid turns brown when you brush it again, its still rusty. Acid dissolves the rust, so scratching speeds it along. Prep and Etch is the cheapest, Home Depot has it in the paint department. But for dipping, the Master Series Rust Remover will work over and over again, at about double the price.
 
If the acid does dry you can reactivate it by brushing some more on and then before it dries rinsing it off. Generally I like to use a red scotchbrite and dish soap and scrub it off while still wet with acid.
 
Make sure any acid you you is only made with ONLY "phosphoric" Never use anything with a meratic acid or hydrochloric acid on a car anywhere.
Oshpo has been used in auto refinishing long before i started in 70's and it is diluted at a safe rate, around 50%.
Just makes no sense to gamble when the Ospho is cheaper then all of them.
 
What I find confounding is the ospho web site instructions specifically say to let it dry.......no mention of rinsing.
There is short reference regarding epoxy and testing but why would you ever not rinse?
 
ya, the instructions to let it dry are confusing but keep in mind a lot of these products were originally formulated for people brushing enamel on patio furniture or rusty tractors.
 
Awesome test.. No better products in the industry.. Ive been using spi for over decade now and will continue to use as long as Barry and Andy keep the doors open.. Anyone using acid needs to hang up their hat
 
[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;n70980]Hey Barry, what is the max temperature cured SPI can handle?[/QUOTE]

I have always been comfy at 400 degrees but now over the last few years been told by a number of people that they used it in their "header collectors" and it works great, so I really don't know.
 
Barry, thanks for that temp info. I will be using it on my underside instead of undercoating. And thanks 68 coronet for asking. Thanks guys
 
Call me a sissy but I haven't had the urge to even give acid a try, I don't like the risk of it, and I know myself well enough that if I did use it I would end up rinsing a single part for hours just to be able to sleep at night knowing that it was all rinsed off.
 
x2 Chad. Just blast me some clean white metal and I'm squirting epoxy.
 
I am a fan of this epoxy. It has many uses...I do custom paint on motorcycles and I use it over bare metal, plastic, fiberglass, repaired parts with 2K primer, body filler and break throughs in the original clear doing spot repairs. it locks everything down and gives a uniform color to lay paint over. I usually mix it as a sealer, just don't add too much reducer, to much reducer can cause reactions you don't want sometimes. I keep a supply of white, grey and black on hand at all times. Barry says you can paint 60 minutes after the epoxy is layed down if you do one coat, but if you have a spot that fish eyes a little or a spot that just didn't cover good, just wait a few (tack free) and dust that spot with the epoxy again...lightly....give it 60 minutes from that point and you can lay paint. temp is important, if I am laying epoxy and I cant keep it 70 or above I let it sit over night. It says it has a 7 day open window time and I have pushed that further too. that's just me, but I have had no issues, been using SPI Epoxy exclusively for at least 2 or 3 years now.
 
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]In some respects acid is like any other product we use. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The general directions for acid are typically---brush, dip, or spray, and rinse while still wet.[/FONT]
The general directions for epoxy are----add scratch profile and brush, dip, or spray two coats.

But there are other things to know in addition to the general directions, for example in the case of epoxy---use W&G remover after scratch profile---wait 60 minutes after cleaning---scratch profile is different over bare metal than over old paint---top coat times are drastically different depending on type of top coat---open coat time is drastically different depending on manufacturer---and on and on, but you get the idea.

So in that respect acid is like any other product we use---know the product before using it.
I totally understand why Barry is so nervous about acid, and totally agree that anyone without a good understanding should avoid using it.
 
So in that respect acid is like any other product we use---know the product before using it.
I totally understand why Barry is so nervous about acid, and totally agree that anyone without a good understanding should avoid using it.
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You are right, I get the horror stories on the tech line after the job is done.
SPI ONLY recommends three kinds.

PPG, Dupont or the Ospho because we know what we are dealing with and all three have been out for many years and not changed with every batch made.
 
I love your products. The latest was shooting epoxy primer on my antique Ford tractor. I know the sheet metal will now last forever. Excellent results again! Thanks!
 
greco said:
I love your products. The latest was shooting epoxy primer on my antique Ford tractor. I know the sheet metal will now last forever. Excellent results again! Thanks!
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My favorite calls! We epoxied a frame 6 months ago and know we need to weld a bracket and epoxy is not blasting off well at all.
My favorite, I did. Wife 57 tbird I put three coats of epoxy on the ford 9" axle back in 98 or 99. the factory brake line bracket I noticed was broke from the weld, bough a new one and took a 24 grit 3" roloc and ground about a 1/2 inch strip to weld new bracket. The mill 140 mig I have would not weld the metal, so reading I fine with a smaller mig you use your torch get the metal red hot, then weld, worked great but the epoxy was only fuzzed for a 1/4 inch after done, I expected it to burn off 4-6 inches on each side.
 
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