spi 2100 production clear

Not complaining....A few months ago I was getting ready for a motorcycle tank. When calling SPI I was looking and asking about the speed/production clear.
I was recommended the UV instead so I bought it. Any comments why?
 
2100

The uv clear is their better clear coat. Although I have had very good luck with their production clear. I like it and I use a lot of it. It is my go to clear on anything that is not a high dollar paint job and sometime even then. Here is three parts that I painted and buffed using the 2100 clear. I see nothing wrong with it. Seems a little harder and buffs a little harder other than that its great. 003.JPG

003.JPG

004.JPG
 
New to the SPI products,have'nt tapped into the euro2020(5000) I bought yet.Need to use up the few gallons other clear on the shelf first.
So Uv(4000)=is show car clear
Euro2020(5000)= hi end collision clear
production 2100= ???
How does 2100 compare to 5000? With the fast activator seems 5000 could be a production clear too. Maybe someone can give a little better breakdown of differences of each
(4000,5000,2100),how they compare for a particular type of job. Pro and cons of each.
Right now with my Sherwin system,I use hpc15 for 1-2 panel and small stuff,CC939 for multi panel,and show stuff gets Matrix ms-42.
If I were using the PPG deltron system(next door in dad's shop) Deltron 2000 clear for 1 panel and small, DCU 3000 for 2-3 panels and deltron 4000 for large or completes
Would be nice to have Uv for show stuff and 5000 or maybe 2100 for the collision-insurance end.
2 clears would be awsome,a hell of alot better than 2-3 highend and 2 cheap ones on the shelf. Too many activators to go bad,not mention the inventory cost.
 
I've been using the 2100 for a little over a year now and the more I use the better I like it. Just painted the black 55 buick that the hood goes on in my post and it buffed out like glass. Three coats of clear and I wet sanded with 1000 and 2000 with a block because it had a lot of urathaine wave to it. Really blocked hard on it, thought for sure I would buff though somewhere but didn't and I buffed the crapp out of it. You could have read your paper in it. Forgot to get a picture of it when it was on the trailer so will have to get one this summer when the guy gets all the chrome back on it. All I use for spot work and used car lots. For the used car work I reduce it good and only put on the bare min. The buick was a low end restore and you would never know it wasn't someones high end clear.
 
Tinman;25849 said:
New to the SPI products,have'nt tapped into the euro2020(5000) I bought yet.Need to use up the few gallons other clear on the shelf first.
So Uv(4000)=is show car clear
Euro2020(5000)= hi end collision clear
production 2100= ???
How does 2100 compare to 5000? With the fast activator seems 5000 could be a production clear too. Maybe someone can give a little better breakdown of differences of each
(4000,5000,2100),how they compare for a particular type of job. Pro and cons of each.
Right now with my Sherwin system,I use hpc15 for 1-2 panel and small stuff,CC939 for multi panel,and show stuff gets Matrix ms-42.
If I were using the PPG deltron system(next door in dad's shop) Deltron 2000 clear for 1 panel and small, DCU 3000 for 2-3 panels and deltron 4000 for large or completes
Would be nice to have Uv for show stuff and 5000 or maybe 2100 for the collision-insurance end.
2 clears would be awsome,a hell of alot better than 2-3 highend and 2 cheap ones on the shelf. Too many activators to go bad,not mention the inventory cost.

First all the clears use the same high end resins and same percentages of UV absorbers, the difference between the Universal and the others is basically spraying and all the others will get harder to buff over a two week period, where the universal, like the fender I just wet-sanded and buffed, done in 1999 buffed like I just painted it.

The 5000, you decide how thick it is with the amount of reducer from 4:1:1 to 4:1:3 for used car work as reducer is cheaper then clear.
The 5100 is same as 5000 but 2:1 VOC, so it is set up as if you mixed the 5000 4:1:1, to meet the VOC laws.
The 2100 is same as 5100 but about 5-8% less solids, a true two coat clear and would never think twice about putting it on a front end of a new $130,000 Mercedes.

A note here, 2:1 voc clears tend to flash slower then a higher VOC clear, so in cold conditions the cure will be about the same but flash could be an extra 5-10 minutes longer.

Not many companies can say this if any (I know of none) but I would put the 2100 up against any $300-500 clear in normal tests. (Our cheapest clear)
 
Bondoskimmer;25178 said:
Not complaining....A few months ago I was getting ready for a motorcycle tank. When calling SPI I was looking and asking about the speed/production clear.
I was recommended the UV instead so I bought it. Any comments why?

Depends who you asked, if you asked me, I would use universal on everything.
 
Its almost impossible for someone or a company to tell you which clear you should really use (outside of lets say a SPEED clear vs an all over "show" clear).

Everyone has their preferences...each clear has its strong points for whatever you are trying to accomplish. I've use all the spi clears (except for the old hs, and ms) and everytime I go back to the universal. I would say my #2 is the euro, if I want a "harder" finish after a few weeks. Nothing wrong with the other clears.....it's just what YOU like with what YOU are doing.
 
I have not sprayed the Euro or the production clear yet, but the UV 1:1 is in my opinion the best clear available anywhere from anyone. As for the cost, unless I mis-figured somewhere (forgive me and correct me if I have, sometimes I don't have enough fingers lol), the UV is only about $10 per sprayable Qt higher than the euro or production which figure out to about the same price of $20 per sprayable Qt when all of them are purchased in gallon size. Of course I am figuring the overall sprayable material price including activator, reducer and clear. And I may have mis-figured somewhere, but if I haven't why use anything but the UV with a very little cost difference? Barry, any reason the production or Euro clear would be better in a certain application instead of the UV? I know cost is often a big factor but if my figures are correct I can't see $10 per sprayed Qt ever really being a problem. I am however open to all input and advice on the subject as I have not been using the SPI line very long.

Kelly
 
We named the universal, that name because at the time we thought it had a fit in any body shop and how I would love to just make one clear BUT this is why the majors have 10-20 different clears and this is why we have 100's of shops that buy and stock 2-3 different clears from us.
Everyone sprays different and everyone has different conditions.
 
jeremyb;26531 said:
Its almost impossible for someone or a company to tell you which clear you should really use (outside of lets say a SPEED clear vs an all over "show" clear).

Everyone has their preferences...each clear has its strong points for whatever you are trying to accomplish. I've use all the spi clears (except for the old hs, and ms) and everytime I go back to the universal. I would say my #2 is the euro, if I want a "harder" finish after a few weeks. Nothing wrong with the other clears.....it's just what YOU like with what YOU are doing.
My thing is for small stuff or a side or panel I like to be out of dust ASAP preferably in 15 minutes or less ( I am used to 10-12 min) and buffable within 24 hrs (used to 2-3hrs) or less at 70+ degrees.
 
Here's a motorcycle tank that I shot this weekend with production clear over black omni base. It's for a guy that sells used bikes here in town.2002-09-03 22.54.50.jpg
 
Heres some more production clear shots. Fenders haven't been buffed yet but the door where sanded with 1500 and buffed.2002-09-24 03.53.04.jpg

2002-09-24 03.53.14.jpg

2002-09-24 05.03.29.jpg
 
Bondoskimmer;26745 said:
My thing is for small stuff or a side or panel I like to be out of dust ASAP preferably in 15 minutes or less ( I am used to 10-12 min) and buffable within 24 hrs (used to 2-3hrs) or less at 70+ degrees.

The universal and the 5000 are the ones you get get out of dust the fastest with a little playing of activators and reducer with the 5000.
 
Back
Top