Speciality Fillers

Can someone compare P17 to VPA using as a filler over Fiberglass? Which would minimize/eliminate repair mapping over time?
 
i have never used vpa so i cant give a comparison. i can say that p17 doesnt shrink or map at all. it doesnt soak up solvents since its a solid plastic unlike regular fillers. i have actually finished it out with 400 grit on a panel before and based it without priming to seal it and it doesnt show or map even then. crazy stuff.
 
Im sure there is. I dont know what it is exactly. I know i have had it sitting in opened cans for well over a year. Just needs a little stir with a stick and its good to go
 
Figured I would do an update.

I've got a mower deck that needs some filler. I've got a quart of the Adtech P17 on the way I am going to try.
Also considering trying the Evercoat 870 VPA, and West Systems Epoxy.

I will post back what I like. High hopes for the adtech though, impressive stuff for not being epoxy.
 
Curious if anyone has messed around with any of the epoxy based marine fillers? Such as Profair by Adtech, or Totalboat?

Seems many are rated for below water line use.
 
I have a full carbon fiber car coming in a few weeks. There are a few areas that need just some fine tuning. I may try that p17. Nothing heavy, just some fine tuning.
 
Nothing drag racing related this time. Its a kit car: Here comes OJ to hijack another thread!

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Dam I like that!

Well I ended up using that Adtech p17 to patch over some welded patches I did on my mower deck. JB weld may have been a better application, but I needed to fix it and I wanted to test out the Adtech. It mixes similar to JB WELD. It dries right now, semi easy to sand to a feather edge. Not a "filler" filler though. I'd use it for initial and top coat it probably.

Highly suggest the Adtech P17, it is real space age tech IMHO. I'm gonna try Evercoat VPA 870 next since it seems to have a hi hardness.
 
I have used not only on vettes as my only filler but also on a 280sl and a GTO for door gaps.
usually on metal gaps, I would use brass for door gaps, but SLs are aluminum, and the 870 over epoxy worked so good on the SLs use on a goat for giggles and ease of getting perfection

The other option for aluminum bodies is using lead. Once the aluminum gets warm enough for the pores to open, the lead will stick like glue.. Works well for those inaccessible areas like A-posts for removing dents/dings..

 
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