Some Kind of Reaction From W&G To Intercoat

B

Brad4321

This is currently sitting with SPI Intercoat mixed with pearl. After a couple hours of dry time I applied the decal. About 8 hours after applying the decal, to make sure it was stuck and dry, I went over the panel with SPI waterborne wax and grease to remove any of the decal adhesive and application fluid. I got these weird white streaks. It seems that the waterborne had some kind of reaction either to the pearl or the intercoat. It isn't just this one piece...it is over the entire tractor, so it is a big deal.



I wanted to bury the decals in clear, which is why I applied them at this point. I am guessing this was a little stupid and I should have sealed the intercoat in clear first, applied the decals, then applied more clear.

Did I screw up real bad and must start over, or is there a way to fix this? I am not sure what is going on.
 
Brad4321;29339 said:
This is currently sitting with SPI Intercoat mixed with pearl. After a couple hours of dry time I applied the decal. About 8 hours after applying the decal, to make sure it was stuck and dry, I went over the panel with SPI waterborne wax and grease to remove any of the decal adhesive and application fluid. I got these weird white streaks. It seems that the waterborne had some kind of reaction either to the pearl or the intercoat. It isn't just this one piece...it is over the entire tractor, so it is a big deal.



I wanted to bury the decals in clear, which is why I applied them at this point. I am guessing this was a little stupid and I should have sealed the intercoat in clear first, applied the decals, then applied more clear.

Did I screw up real bad and must start over, or is there a way to fix this? I am not sure what is going on.
Click to expand...

I found out the hard way that you don't use waterborne wax and grease remover on fresh paint while trying to remove tape residue on an Eleanor we are painting. I called Barry and he said to ONLY use 710 solvent based wax and grease remover on fresh paint.
 
Really? Never even thought to ask. I didn't think the waterborne was that harsh. Hard lesson on this one.

Hate to say it...what is the fix? Sand it all off and start over?
 
Brad4321;29343 said:
Really? Never even thought to ask. I didn't think the waterborne was that harsh. Hard lesson on this one.

Hate to say it...what is the fix? Sand it all off and start over?
Click to expand...

I always thought the same thing that the solvent based was harsher but I was wrong it does not attack fresh paint.

Sorry to say yes.
 
Thanks for the info and quick response. The base/intercoat was activated too. Best write this one down in the lessons learned book.

Someone should add this to a "tips" page, or better yet update the tech sheet. First paragraph says in bold letters "will not attack fresh paint!". Granted, at the bottom it says not recommended over basecoat, which I didn't read that far down before. Once we hit the plastic section I was done reading. Seems like a lot of people could make this mistake, and it is a costly one for me here.
 
I had to clear the parts I hadn't ruined and decided to shoot a bit on that one piece in the original picture. The clear has hid all of the markings! I am about 2 hours away from being outside the clear window, so I am in a bit of a rush. I am not doubting anyone here (really I am not, I fully respect your expertise), but are we completely sure this is bad? Take a look at these pics.





I am just living on hopes and dreams right now as not just this plate, but the entire chassis will need to be redone. I obviously don't want delamination and other problems down the road, but the clear hid the white streaks perfectly.
 
A long time ago I was able to wipe basecoat with #700 with no problem. I think it had to be made stronger at some point to deal with the mold releases and crap that is on new bare plastic bumpers, which is one of its main design tasks.

It looks like the solvent in the clear just re-melted that outer milky layer. That is good to know! Let us know if it stays that way. My bet is that adhesion will be fine, but appearance? That's what we'll want to see.
 
I went ahead and put a couple of coats on everything. The milky layer was real bad on the chassis to the point it was white, as when I first seen it I thought I was smearing some crap around and went and applied more W&G remover, which obviously made it much worse. However, it is all gone. You are probably right on remelting the layer as I could watch the milky slowly disappear over a period of about 3 seconds after applying the first coat of clear. It just melted right into it.

This is my own personal tractor (first time ever painting something for myself!), so if it does fail down the line I'll deal with that. I made the decision that 2 quarts of clear are worth risking and trying to salvage a quite a few hundred in decals, base, pearl, etc.

I will keep you all updated on what happens, as I am interested too. Really hoping for the best here.
 
funny, i read topic and looked at the pic and knew exactly what had happened. the 700 has alot of water and i believe some acetone in it so it will bite into the intercoat slightly. as you already found out you can just go ahead and clear it. ive done it many times myself.
 
The 700 is much more aggressive then the 710, that is why we recommend it on bare metal, now for base coat I have used it in the past but it is risky and works well on some bases and not good on others at all.

The 700 over the last ten years has been made a little less aggressive (twice) but I still would not risk on a basecoat and it is still our first recommendation for cleaning fresh clear for re-clearing.

The 700 WILL NOT remove any type of glue at all, the 710 should be used for that.
 
We used mineral spirits to remove sticky residue from a stencil. It was on the base directly, no clear had been sprayed and it worked great. Barry is this something you would or wouldn't recommend? Actually, I'm thinking we read it somewhere on this forum to use it.
 
Mineral spirits is about the most gentle solvent you can use. We wipe down even real delicate airbrush work with it here. Been using it for years now. Its just important you get a good, pure grade of it. I have gotten it from my jobber and have also used the kleen strip brand now for maybe 10 years and never an issue with that. That brand you can get right at home depot
 
82 the 710 or what you used is fine, the caution I do give everyday is let the W&G set after drying if applied to base, just to make sure all the solvents are gone from the base.
 
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