Seam sealers & epoxy

Crazychevelle

Promoted Users
Hey guys

Awhile ago I sprayed 3 coats of SPI epoxy primer on the underside, inside and trunk of my 67 chevelle. I need to seam seal everything still and have a few questions.

- Does the seam sealer need to be top coated with paint after? I wasnt going to topcoat the epoxy since it isn't needed as per tech sheets.
- how should I prep before applying the seam sealer? Is red scotch brite good enough?
- if I decide to paint over the epoxy and seam sealer, is red scotch brite good enough to scuff up the epoxy?
- what are some good seam sealers out there? I hear good things about lord fusor.

Thanks guys
 
Hi, Crazy. I did seam sealer within the 7-day window of the epoxy. That being said, I don't see why it would be much different than putting on filler - red scotch brite prep. However, and others with more experience will hopefully correct me if I'm wrong, I'd be concerned that I wouldn't be able to reach all of the epoxy with the scotch brite pad (like in the creases/crevices of the panel joint) and may have adhesion problems in the long run.

As for painting over, when I was outside my 7-day window prior to applying Raptor Liner (I don't see why another paint product would be much different), I scuffed the existing epoxy with red scotch brite, but then shot a reduced (25%) single coat of epoxy, waited two hours, then shot my Raptor Liner. When I go to final paint, that's my intention as well, using the reduced epoxy as a final sealer.

I'm sure Barry or someone with much more knowledge than me can explain why that's the way to go (I've read it on this forum several times), but I haven't had any problems with doing it this way so far.

I cannot recommend a good seam sealer to you, but I understand the two-part ones are preferable, but it may have more specific applications. I used Evercoat brushable seam sealer (in a can) and I've been happy with it, but it's just an old Triumph Spitfire restoration.

Cheers,
Chris
 
Thanks for the quick reply Chris.
I will go ahead and scuff the areas before seam sealer. Thanks for the tip on reducing. I thought about raptor liner but have been on the fence. If I decide to scuff the whole thing again I will reconsider it lol

Any other help/tips from anyone is appreciated
 
Just need to pick one and apply it like it asks. There are some that say they dont need primer, and some that say it ok over paint. I think the biggest problem you would have if you tried to put it on too quick rather than the epoxy being too far cured. There are some you can paint and some that you should not paint, mainly because you slow down the cure of the sealer if you topcoat it before it hardens.

If you dont want to paint it, then pick one that does not require paint and you are done. Does not sound like you want to spray anymore anyway.
 
Thanks guys, I think I'm just going to purchase either SEM or 3M black 2k sealer and the right gun and start applying it. Still trying to plan my attack so I don't do things more than I should but will figure it out. I read both tech sheets and they are pretty similar and should meet my needs, will just come down to price and availability
 
I would add something that caught me out the first time using a good 2k seam sealer. Your on the right track planning ahead, but really take into account the work and set up times for which ever product you choose. Some of them set up fairly quick and once they set up you are stuck with how it is when it sets.

If you have to take a few breaks in between sealing you will need a new nozzle, something to consider ordering extras of. I can tell you from first hand experience, its better to take a couple breaks and use a few nozzles than to get ahead of yourself and have a mess.
 
Yea I noticed the work times for both isnt a lot of time. The SEM had a longer working time (10 min over 6min for 3M) which makes me lean a little more to SEM. I'm going to try and get an extra pair of hands or two to help when applying it.

Did you tape off around the seams to make things look cleaner or just go to town?
I know it probably comes down to preference but sounds like you would have to work quick with the short working time.
 
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