Seam sealer

R

RAC65

Anyone here use the Evercoat Maxim seam sealer? It can be used with a regular caulking gun so you don't have to buy a special applicator. Is it any good? Are there other ones that would be better. Thanks ....RC.
 
Forgot to ask what would you guys recommend for filling pinholes or minor scratches. Thanks
 
Thanks 68. I have a 65 Chevy pickup cab to redo, do you have any idea how much I would need? Thanks again...RC
 
I use the maxim products. I have also tried the fusor 800 as well. All products mentioned are really good. The maxim products are 2k and are epoxy. The 800 is urethane and its basically a very soft windshield adhesive. I do prefer the maxim stuff by far. Just a side note, dont think you are getting a full caulking tube of product. The plunger in the maxim tubes are 2/3 of the tube.
 
RAC65;11961 said:
Thanks 68. I have a 65 Chevy pickup cab to redo, do you have any idea how much I would need? Thanks again...RC
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To give you an idea I used 2 tubes on a 65 Buick Convertible but I did the whole car.
I have not tried the Maxim products but I liked the Fusor much better than the Fast and Firm I was using.
 
We were just discussing 3M urethane Ultrapro seam sealer here:
http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?538-Rebuilding-entire-truck-bed

Bob Hollinshead;6522 said:
The sealer remains flexible forever-awesome stuff, I've been using it since it was first introduced in 89'. Make sure to use the urethane version that comes in the breakfast sausage type tubes-they are called chubs, there is also a solvent based ultrapro that is junk-stay away from any solvent based sealers. Prime your parts with epoxy, apply a bead of the sealer on all lap areas and bolt the box together, wipe off the excess the squishes out-this will provide the best corrosion resistance. Most people assemble then apply the sealer to cover the edge of the seam but the seam will still have an open void this way and if there's any entry point for water you could eventually end up with a hotspot for corrosion. You've got a perfect opportunity to assemble that box right.
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LostMy65;11905 said:
Is this the stuff?
http://3mcollision.com/3m-urethane-seam-sealer-08361-gray.html
8361.jpg
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Bob Hollinshead;11909 said:
Yup, it's been around for around many years now, proven product, works awesome over epoxy within the recoat window or just scuff your primer before application. Shoot some primer or paint over it 4-24 hrs after application. It won't shrink up a crack like the old solvent based sealers that killed many of the old cars. You wouldn't believe the stuff I've done and seen done with this stuff-it was first introduced as a sealer/adhesive. There are some copies out there but they aren't as good in some respects. I like it better than the production orientated quick dry 2K sealers. Wear gloves-it likes to stick to skin.
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The applicator gun for those flexible sausage packages is $75 by itself. Hence the reason I went with the Lord Fusor 803EZ that I can use in my regular caulking gun already purchased and hanging on the wall. :)
 
That's a good deal on that gun! Transtar, RubberSeal, Crest, and Fusor all offer copies of the ultrapro in chubs. The Rubberseal is the closest of all of them.
 
Not to hijack this thread ,but is this the type of sealer that I could use in the drip gutter of the Imperial I'm redoing?
 
Be careful with the self leveling sealers on drip rails that follow the windshield post and sail panels, it can be a mess.
 
It is perfect for that application but as bob said it can make a mess at the bottom. It will often drip down on the door. nice thing about the maxim stuff though is its epoxy and it will stiffen up in about 5 min so the dripping will stop quickly. Just put a piece of masking paper at the bottom of the rail to catch anything. As soon as it stiffens up pull it off and toss it.
 
The UltraPro works well in the drip rails but you need to tool the sealer to the shape you want. The self leveling sealer can make a mess if too much is applied and it all runs out the ends, you can make dams on some designs, and sometimes it's better to apply a few applications and work your way up the build level needed. I usually just run some masking tape to keep it in the area it needs to be then run a bead of Ultrapro, tool it with my finger or anything suitable to achieve the right shape, then when it's right I pull the tape and give it one more swipe to get rid of the tape lines-this way I can control the build height and I can also put any characteristics needed to match original. Some of these old cars had a bead that looked like it came out of a caulking gun, others it was brushed or tooled.
 
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