Seam sealer conundrum

sprint_9

Rookie
I have a C10 I am restoring, and have some seam sealer questions. The cab was blasted and is currently in bare metal and Im trying to make the a decision on what to do with some of the seam sealer.

I took most of the sealer out of the drip rail, it was cracked on a couple of the corners were the water would sit, other than that I couldnt get some of it out to save my life, I used a screw driver, wire wheel and while its knocked down good it is really stuck. Its still flexable and isnt rusting below it.

I have kind of the same thing on the back of the roof, where the two halves of the roof come together there is a seam. I havent messed with this yet as it is still flexable, isnt cracked anywhere and showed no issues before or after blasting. The factory did a really good job of making a nice bead and I doubt mine will come out as even and look as good as the one on there does now.

I guess what Im wondering is if I can epoxy over these areas and continue on and leave them? On the drip rail after epoxy I would add new sealer to level everything off , on the roof seam just leave it as is. Thanks.
 
I tried seam sealing tonight using 3m 08308, and now I have a real disaster. I focused on the drip rail, ran tape along my edges, put the product in the seam, and smoothed it. Had it looking decent and removed the tape and ended up with a big edge that flopped up. By the time I got back to trying to smooth the edge it had started to set, tried putting more in to smooth it over and ended up with an absolute nightmare, globs and just in general a giant mess.

At this point what options do I have, try to sand it, or dig it out. Neither sounds like its going to end well and Im not really sure what to think.
 
This is one of the hardest areas to get perfect with seam sealer and have beat myself to death over the years trying to make the drip rails perfect.
Like Hutten said since Duramix came out in 80"s I have only used the "controlled flow seam sealer" in the drip rail areas.
 
I used the 08308 and for an amateur it turned out OK. I started by brushing epoxy primer into the seam. Where there was a little bit of factory paint left on the backside of the lip, the sealer didn't stick well. I had to trim that off with a razor blade, and sand that back off by hand. A popsicle stick was just the right width to trowel it out, semi-smooth. The 08308 sands decent, too. Areas that I dripped the 08308 on the interior and floor are permanently stuck!
 
Luckily it seems to be sanding ok. If I put a coat of epoxy over it when I'm done sanding can I put a little more sealer on top of that to kind of smooth things over? Will the epoxy tie everything together? It will be sanded with 80 grit but it's not smooth, it has some waves in it. I was going to try the self leveling on my level surfaces to get rid of the waves.
 
Id like to report that my issue has been resolved. I want to thank you guys for suggesting the self leveling, it really is a life saver. I started correcting my mess by digging all of the ruined sealer out, once it was out I roughed up the metal, and re-epoxy'd the channel. On my c10 the rail slopes so I used a floor jack to level the cab, and applied the self leveling sealer. I was extremely happy with the results, it turned out great.

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