jlcustomz
evil painter
Infared lights also can be used as a substitute for the sun. I have a few shop built rows of fixtures at work using 250 w bulbs. I've recently kept a large part in closed room a few cycles with lights on which registered average a little over 130 degrees surface temps with IR gauge. I did notice it accomplished some filler shrinkage under the epoxy. Warmed up that amount after overnite drying. Hot & cooling back off cycles seems to speed up process, which can happen naturally driving a vehicle.
Abuse of 2k primer to fill remaining low spots is absolutely asking for some shrinkage. As mentioned , slicksand or featherfill g-2 like I use is better for heavier filling. Like any sprayable filler , you sand off most of what you don't need. It needs about 10 minutes of flash time & can dry up in gun in approx. 25 to 40 minutes, so if you time it right you can repeat hit extra on the lower spots. Much faster for shallow repairs than applying filler by hand &having to sand entire area slightly lower than you want. Good to put over epoxy with 2 plus days dry time & recoat with epoxy when done or at least 2k . Epoxy adds strength with thickness, so doesn't hurt to gradually build it up in thickness, can constantly be sandwiched in between other layers as long as using proper drying times.
A light coat of epoxy over a heavily body worked area can be great to lightly sand & highlight areas that need extra filler. Finding these remaining low spots, scratches ,& pinholes earlier on in the process is an overall time saver & can help final quality. Epoxy calls for 24 hrs dry time before filler, but I've did a few hours less with a light coat & some uv bulb drying time.
Here's a link where I'm using epoxy & g-2 on part.
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/el-c...aised-rear-quarters.66438/page-14#post-734530
Abuse of 2k primer to fill remaining low spots is absolutely asking for some shrinkage. As mentioned , slicksand or featherfill g-2 like I use is better for heavier filling. Like any sprayable filler , you sand off most of what you don't need. It needs about 10 minutes of flash time & can dry up in gun in approx. 25 to 40 minutes, so if you time it right you can repeat hit extra on the lower spots. Much faster for shallow repairs than applying filler by hand &having to sand entire area slightly lower than you want. Good to put over epoxy with 2 plus days dry time & recoat with epoxy when done or at least 2k . Epoxy adds strength with thickness, so doesn't hurt to gradually build it up in thickness, can constantly be sandwiched in between other layers as long as using proper drying times.
A light coat of epoxy over a heavily body worked area can be great to lightly sand & highlight areas that need extra filler. Finding these remaining low spots, scratches ,& pinholes earlier on in the process is an overall time saver & can help final quality. Epoxy calls for 24 hrs dry time before filler, but I've did a few hours less with a light coat & some uv bulb drying time.
Here's a link where I'm using epoxy & g-2 on part.
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/el-c...aised-rear-quarters.66438/page-14#post-734530
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A couple of note hear:
Shine is right. The seams are always redone with a strip job, or you will see them down the road no matter what is used, period.
I'm close to 88 or 89 old vettes over the last 45 years, and NEVER have had a shrinkage problem. And either use just epoxy or will use 3 k primer for a final blocking test.
The most common mistakes hobbyists make with 2k primers are the following.
!) not spraying wet coats, so you bridge scratches instead of filling them, om the first coat.
2) Blocking the primer with 180 and final sanding again with a final grit, you always re-primer and first block with you 320, 400, or 600 before sealer.
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