Sanding blocks.

I know this is a older thread..but I always enjoy learning more about how everyone else does things! I've been using durablocks for years with no issues I store them flat and true them up every once in a while! Would love to see how flexible blocks play a role! I've always used stiff blocks because that's the only way I ever knew to block! I've never had an issue with wavyness as I learned at a early age how to block with what I have!
 
Anyone have opinions on 3M Tri-M-ite sand paper? I've only used their 600 for polishing stainless bolt heads, and the difference from what I was using was remarkable, it cut much quicker, gave a finer finish, and last longer.
 
The trueblox guy works with a lot of the magazine "names". Ring Brothers, and others, but if I'm being honest the way those cars get prepped is not ideal. Filler on metal (lots of filler) and poly primer. Maybe I'm old fashioned but coating a car front to rear with body filler does not mean it's straight. He's gots some peculiar techniques. Those cars look good when done but longevity wise I think those cars would have some issues with chipping and adhesion (long term). But I think those cars are made to be pretty under the lights and not to drive. Just saying this not out of jealousy but after reading his site, just surprised with how those 'Name" cars are done. To be fair a lot of that is the metalwork and lack of finishing which is not what he does. He gets them after that.
Big difference with those cars and guys who many have never heard of like Peter Tommasini, Geoff Moss, Kent White and a few others who can put out such a high degree of work in metal. Stuff that only requires primer for the most part. And not 6 coats of poly primer either.

Anyone have opinions on 3M Tri-M-ite sand paper? I've only used their 600 for polishing stainless bolt heads, and the difference from what I was using was remarkable, it cut much quicker, gave a finer finish, and last longer.

IIRC Chev Tri-M_ite is silicon carbide paper versus standard aluminum oxide wet sanding paper. Silicon carbide is very much superior in terms of cut and longevity.
 
I agree Chris..just wondering about flexible blocks...we don't use anything that has that much give around here! And as far as acrylic blocks I believe I'd try the big kid blocks first..seem like they are a little better built!

Most of the tv shows do the filler to bare metal..my process is probably a lil overboard but I have cars I painted 10 years ago that look as good as the day as I painted them! Process and quality materials go a long way in the classic car business!
 
Hmm... interesting..I've always struggled and cussed at 50's trucks because they are so rounded!
 
I'll add another name to the HOF List. One of the all time greats. Paint, body, metal, work he and his guys have done over the years is some of the best.
Herschel "Junior" Conway

Three part video worth checking out. Junior gives a tour of the Shop and describes the process. Bonus is 90 year old Ed "Isky" Iskenderian tags along. He's at least 95 years old in this video!!!!!!!! I think he's 99 now. Amazing. Love the Old Guys.

3 Parts on Vimeo.


You'll never see cars that were painted on TV 10 years later, for a reason. I have modified a durablock with cuts half way through starting at the top every 3/4 of an inch to give it more flex. Worked great on a VW bug.

I still chuckle thinking about an old episode of American Hot Rod where they did that TriFive Chevy that got pulled from a junkyard. Flash to the end of the show where the owner said he thought he had finest one in the country. :D Boyd's name carried so much weight. Mediocre stuff suddenly was gold in some peoples eyes because Boyds name was on it.
 
I agree with y’all about the longevity of all the body filler on bare metal. I have the durablock, lucky Matt’s acrylic blocks and the true blox. Both of the acrylic blocks will get a panel straight a lot faster than the durablock. The true blox are more comfortable to use with less hand fatigue than the lucky matt’s blocks.
 
Three part video worth checking out. Junior gives a tour of the Shop and describes the process. Bonus is 90 year old Ed "Isky" Iskenderian tags along. He's at least 95 years old in this video!!!!!!!! I think he's 99 now. Amazing. Love the Old Guys.
He sure looks it, but I was curious. Actually he was born in 1938, and is only 82 now. I guess he's been sniffing the paint fumes too much :eek:
 
Chevman, I was talking about Ed Iskenderian of Isky Camshaft Fame. He appears at the begining of the first video. Ed is 99 years old. Last of the original hot rodders.
 
I wanted to try the acrylic sanding blocks, but didn't want to wait for up to the 10 week lead time that some of the acrylic block suppliers were quoting. I found on Ebay, by searching "acrylic sheet free cut" and found a seller selling scrape for a good price and I had the sheets cut down to 2 11'16" wide to fit the sandpaper. I have lots of options, different thicknesses and lengths. They are in different colors but I didn't care, they were cheap and quick and easy to get. I used two pieces of 2.88" Tough & Wide wide Gorilla tape to make a handle. So far I think I am going to like my new sanding blocks.
 
I wanted to try the acrylic sanding blocks, but didn't want to wait for up to the 10 week lead time that some of the acrylic block suppliers were quoting. I found on Ebay, by searching "acrylic sheet free cut" and found a seller selling scrape for a good price and I had the sheets cut down to 2 11'16" wide to fit the sandpaper. I have lots of options, different thicknesses and lengths. They are in different colors but I didn't care, they were cheap and quick and easy to get. I used two pieces of 2.88" Tough & Wide wide Gorilla tape to make a handle. So far I think I am going to like my new sanding blocks.
That’s great. The acrylic is a good block, if you make them or buy them.
 
The trueblox guy works with a lot of the magazine "names". Ring Brothers, and others, but if I'm being honest the way those cars get prepped is not ideal. Filler on metal (lots of filler) and poly primer. Maybe I'm old fashioned but coating a car front to rear with body filler does not mean it's straight. He's gots some peculiar techniques. Those cars look good when done but longevity wise I think those cars would have some issues with chipping and adhesion (long term). But I think those cars are made to be pretty under the lights and not to drive. Just saying this not out of jealousy but after reading his site, just surprised with how those 'Name" cars are done. To be fair a lot of that is the metalwork and lack of finishing which is not what he does. He gets them after that.
Big difference with those cars and guys who many have never heard of like Peter Tommasini, Geoff Moss, Kent White and a few others who can put out such a high degree of work in metal. Stuff that only requires primer for the most part. And not 6 coats of poly primer either.

Im glad you brought that up, id like a pro opinion on that. Ive done lots of panel skims on trunk lids and such that ive shaved (welded wing holes and emblem holes, rear wiper holes, etc) and feel good about that. Just did one in evercoat rage ultra, blocked it out and 3 coats of high build and it was good.
We own a family heirloom 53 chevy pickup that I am going to tackle the body on soon. Its a restomod with a full frame , 9 inch, 4 link, mustang 2, etc. It will be stripped bare and will need some metal work. Ive never used expoxy but after reading this forum i planned to coat the whole thing in epoxy after metal work and follow that with a full skim of rage ultra and go from there. I want it to look great but hold up (within reason) because it will be in the family forever. Do you advise against that?
The only other full bare metal vehicle i did 10 years ago, which i still own. I had never heard of epoxy, i coated it with a "wash" primer from PPG which my local distributor suggested. Ive had no issues as of yet.
 
I don’t think there is any shame in skimming a panel. The key is how much ends up on the car versus the floor. You don’t want the filler any thicker than needed and less than 1/8” worst case imho. There should be very little to none in most areas of the car when you are finished blocking.

Metal finished cars are awesome if you have the skills and/or your pockets are deep enough. But a lot of us cannot deliver on either option....

Don
 
Because of the technique shift of going to multiple applications of SPI epoxy, we've mostly eliminated the skimming of entire panels in favor of blocking, skimming problem areas, and putting a couple more coats of epoxy down. Usually about 3 rounds of 2 coats is enough to get the panel ready for final prime. The neat thing about epoxy is that due to the gloss, you can see if there is a problem right away and go back to doing a little metalwork pretty easily.
 
Because of the technique shift of going to multiple applications of SPI epoxy, we've mostly eliminated the skimming of entire panels in favor of blocking, skimming problem areas, and putting a couple more coats of epoxy down. Usually about 3 rounds of 2 coats is enough to get the panel ready for final prime. The neat thing about epoxy is that due to the gloss, you can see if there is a problem right away and go back to doing a little metalwork pretty easily.

Thank you, and dhutton01. Yea im just referring to a light skim. When going for a super straight finish, the inconsistencies have to be filled with something obviously. And im no stranger to doing multiple rounds of primer and blocking, but ive never done a full skim. The question is, what is more stable long term? Layers and layers of primer or a skim coat of mud with minimal primer? Im no pro but i feel like in my head that it would be a skim of mud.
 
But most of the skim coat should be sanded off down to your initial layer of epoxy primer. Only the lows should have filler when you are done. The same goes for polyester primer and high build urethane primer. Only the lows should have significant build. So long as you do that I don’t think there will be any long term issues.

Keep in mind that I’m not a pro. Guys like Chris, Crash, and Texasking do this for a living and have for many years.

Don
 
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