A
Anorexicvega
For cavities that cant be accessed, is it better to spray epoxy first, then spray the cavities with converter? Or the other way around and clean/neutralize areas that would be epoxied? Tia
I had the eastwood stuff in mind.I'm doing some rust repair on an 01 Grand Prix that has many hidden cavities. After much research here and elsewhere I have decided on no rust converter on anything I can access. Only SPI after sandblasting. Stuff i have some access to, but not enough to blast will get sprayed down with Ospho and then later treated with Fluid Film cavity wax. Rails and such that can't be easily sprayed with Ospho will get some Eastwood internal Frame coating followed by some Fluid Film cavity wax.
I'm under no illusions that these treatment will get every bit of rust, but I hope to slow it enough to get many more years out of the car..
Good luck
From what i've read, the cavity wax is a preventitive. I know there's surface rust on some of the internal cavities of this car. I can't see just leaving it as the only option.Barry has repeatedly stated SPI Epoxy is not intended to be put on top of converter and he absolutely will not guarantee adhesion. Please research this subject carefully before you proceed. If you are going to use any kind of converter it is going to have to be neutralized. This will involve thoroughly rinsing it while it is still wet.
There have been many threads written about this issue and lots of information is here on the forum. Please, do yourself a favor and educate youself on any form of acid for rust control.
There are products such as Cavity Wax made for this purpose but I am no authority on how well they work.
John