Rust converter or encapsulater?

[Pretending702]

So on this section I’m taking out all the rust and going to epoxy. My question is on hard to reach areas like the inner doors. Should I use rust converter or encapsulator? What’s the difference? I was thinking Eastwood encapsulator plus…

Open to suggestions.

 

[chevman]

I don't think you will get any endorsements around here for either one, and if I'm not mistaken I think lacquer thinner will remove the Eastwood encapsulater. What I like is to make a plywood trough the size you need, line it with two layers of 6 mil plastic, and cover that with some linoleum to protect the plastic, and use Rust911 as a rust remover. One gallon will make 16 gallons of usable product. The very bottom 4-6 inches deep is normally all you have to worry about. You can leave the door in it as long as it takes to remover the rust. When the solution turns black, then its used up and needs to changed.

Rust911 will not harm any kind of metal, and does not need to be neutralized, just pull the door out when its clean and rinse it off. It will flash rust fairly soon so get it totally dry as quick as possible and let sit in the sun for an hour or so. Put tape on the holes from the outside except leave the window opening at the top open to pour SPI epoxy in the door and roll it around to cover the whole inside of the door, quickly remove the tape and pour the epoxy out. Try not to let the primer dry with the door right side up, you don't want it to dry thick on the bottom, also make sure the drains are open.

 

[ct71rr]

I used Rust911, a large plastic bin, plastic sheeting and a sprinkler hooked up to a sump pump to constantly spray my roof (my car was flipped upside down on a rotisserie. I tented the plastic inside the plastic bin and around the roof. It worked great!

 

[Pretending702]

I'll look into Rust911. I really dont care which product I just need to do something for hard to reach areas. Appreciate the input. The rust on the exterior all comes off pretty easy with 120 sandpaper.

 

[chevman]

I used 2x8s on the sides, and 3/4” plywood on the ends.

 

[theastronaut]

Another soaking option is citric acid powder with baking soda to reduce the acidity level. I've been experimenting with it and it works out to about $1.50- $3.00 per gallon depending on how strong you make it. It works via chelation like Evaporust so it doesn't hurt good metal.


I started a thread about it here-

Easy, cheap, non-destructive rust removal- Citric Acid + Baking Soda

I ran across a youtube vid comparing a home-brew citric acid + baking soda + dish detergent mix to Evaporust a couple months ago and tried out a small batch on a t-slot table we bought at an auction. I didn't have a lot of time to spend on it, just covered it in paper towels and soaked it for a...

www.spiuserforum.com

 

[chevman]

Its always nice to have alternatives, but there are a few advantages of using Rust911, even though it cost a little more at $4.37 per gallon of usable product. Its quicker, and can be used on any kind of metal, including springs.
Word of caution also, when using any kind of steel brush to clean the black off of parts after dipping, the brush will polish the metal to the point of hiding some rust that is still there. I would suggest redipping after brushing and that will reveal any rust still there.
https://www.rust911.com/

 

[Slofut]

On pieces detached from the car like that, and inner construction that can be well accessed and turned upside down etc... I don't see why sandblasting wouldn't be the first choice, especially since (iirc) the best substrate for SPI epoxy is sandblasted metal. ...As long as it can be properly blown and cleaned free of loose sand. Being that is pretty thick sheetmetal and in smaller formed areas, that would be my first choice. On the larger panels other choices may be necessary, and I think only the recommended product under SPI Epoxy is well neutralized Ospho. Page 14 in the tech manual covers this. ...unless I'm missing something?

 

[Pretending702]

On pieces detached from the car like that, and inner construction that can be well accessed and turned upside down etc... I don't see why sandblasting wouldn't be the first choice, especially since (iirc) the best substrate for SPI epoxy is sandblasted metal. ...As long as it can be properly blown and cleaned free of loose sand. Being that is pretty thick sheetmetal and in smaller formed areas, that would be my first choice. On the larger panels other choices may be necessary, and I think only the recommended product under SPI Epoxy is well neutralized Ospho. Page 14 in the tech manual covers this. ...unless I'm

I didn’t have either when I posted this now I have both.

 

[chevman]

Nothing wrong with using media blasting, if using the correct media for the job at hand, and you know how to do it safely. There are several things to consider before choosing blasting. Inside of doors is not a good blasting area, and it is a very difficult area to neutralize acid products, but still difficult to get the rust out of without using a soaking product.

On the larger panels other choices may be necessary, and I think only the recommended product under SPI Epoxy is well neutralized Ospho. Page 14 in the tech manual covers this. ...unless I'm missing something?

"NEVER use SPI Epoxy Primer over acid etch/wash primers or rust converters- it will not work and we strongly suggest if you want to use a rust converter that you use the rust converters paint system instead of SPI. Acid treatments should not be used unless you know the proper way to neutralize them. Again, call us to be safe as acid films can cause an adhesion loss. We only recommend using Ospho’s acid treatment if you even need one."

Rust911 is not acidic, all it needs after soaking parts in it is to rinse it off.

The inside part of doors is not going to be exposed to any abuse that would need the absolute best adhesion, so it just needs clean metal----and I did check this with Barry a decade ago.

I was having some problems with my pictures when I posted this before, so here is the trough that I made for door soaking. Its made of wood that I had on hand. Soaking gets in behind everything to get it all clean. Two layers of 6 mil plastic, and I covered that with linoleum to protect the plastic.