Respray and Color change question

[Ted]

This is my first post so I apologize if this is the wrong area. I have a 2011 Ram 3500 dually that I'm replacing the bed on because of damage. The replacement bed I bought is Silver and in good shape. My truck is Red and I want to change the color and match the bed color. I've got a few hail dents I am repairing on the hood and a dent in the curve of the cab, none of the repairs will require filler. Need opinions on my planned options:
1. Use Gray SPI epoxy primer as sealer for the cab to give the base a closer match to the bed. Sand the bed with 600 and try to blend it with the cab color change, maybe drop coat the bed and cab together after the final base coat of the cab.
2. Sand bed and cab with 320, epoxy prime 3 coats, block sand, epoxy prime as sealer, re-spray bed cab all as one. (Bed will be pulled away from the cab but still on the truck for the color coats)

Will be re-spraying under the hood and jambs prior to exterior base/clear. I don't need to spray the inside of the bed, it will have a liner sprayed in after paint is finished. Planning to use Diamont base, color is metallic silver (PS2) and SPI universal clear. I already have the clear.

 

[El_Duderino]

We spray diamont and SPI so here's my two pesos.

First, base the entire truck the color you want. It's not much more work or money. Then it will all match and hold out the same.

If you want maximum durability and have the proper time to let the epoxy dry, then sand the entire truck with 320 or 400 and prime with epoxy. Let dry at least 7 days then wet sand with 400 then 800 before paint.

If more of a nice daily driver and not much time to finish, sand the entire truck with 320 or 400, apply reduced epoxy to bare metal only. Next day, apply 4 coats of turbo primer (because of fast full cure time) The next day or so, wet sand with 400 then 800 for paint.

If you have to add filler to anything, I would spot prime first, block with 220 or so, then primer the entire truck.

This method works well for me, but there are a multiple ways.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

If your cab is in good shape simply wet sand with 600 to remove the texture. Using epoxy over factory paint isn't going to make the job any more durable. Sanding with 320 would be a waste of time. Only reason to sand it down with 320 and shoot primer would be to block out any imperfections. If this is not a show truck and you are happy with the "factory" look, it would be a complete waste of time and resources.
How I do something like your truck.
1. Strip/remove mirrors, belt moldings, weatherstripping, emblems, door handles, taillights, bumpers, etc. Remove as much as you can so you have as few tape lines as possible.
2. Give it a good wash with Dawn detergent, then after it is dry wipe down entire vehicle with 700 waterbourne W&G remover. Do that step twice if you used Armor -All on your tires.
3. Do any necessary bodywork. Finish with 180 grit. If you need to use filer you can apply epoxy beforehand (ideal) or you can use it after. If needed apply urethane primer surfacer after 24 hrs @ 70 degrees (epoxy).
4. Block out your bodywork with 320 grit dry. Get it close but not completely sanded.
5. Wet sand entire vehicle with 600 grit. Finish sand your primed areas with 600, sand existing finish with 600 grit wet to remove any texture. It is unnecessary to sand any further than simply removing the texture of the existing finish. Something like this I never go through the factory clear coat.
6. Using a gray scotchbrite pad and some "scuff-stuff" Go over the entire vehicle.
7. Rinse thoroughly, hand wash again with Dawn, rinse thoroughly.
8, Once it is dry you are ready to begin taping.
9, Seal it with either Epoxy or Urethane.
10. Proceed with your base and clear coats.

Another trick you may want to try is what I call "pull offs" When you are taping something you can't easily remove like some moldings, windshield gaskets, I've even used this trick for door handles, beltline moldings, whatever, When you are taping instead of starting with the edge closest to the painted surface, tape up to the edge leaving a gap that can be filled with 3/4" tape. After you have taped up the vehicle go back to any edge that you are going to do this to and then tape the edge. When you are done clearing the vehicle wait a few minutes (I do it after I've cleaned my gun) then pull that tape off the edge. You will never have a hard edge doing it this way and the clear won't bridge and pull off in a painted area like it can sometimes do when you have to tape moldings etc and pull your tape off the next day. If you are careful there will be no discernible edge.

Don't forget to do your jambs as well. Nothing looks worse than a vehicle that has had the color changed but the jambs are still the original color,

 

[Ted]

Thanks guys. This truck is pretty low mileage and just tows a camper now so it I have time to let it sit for several weeks at a time. I do plan to remove moldings, door handles, etc... and jamb it out. I appreciate all of the advise. It will start coming apart next week and just needs to be back together by mid May.

 

[tomsteve]

1st things 1st- wash thoroughly and make sure theres no old wax on the truck. wash/ flush/powerwash the undercarriage and wheel wells good and used compressed air on nooks and crannies. amazing how even when I think ive done a thorough cleaning, dirt pops out of a crevice when I pull the triier on the gun.