Repairing Universal Clear

Joe in NY

Joe in NY

Promoted Users
I'm shooting the clear today and have to repair and area where my shirt touched the wet clear. Is there any reason I can't just wait until it has hardened sufficiently to sand the area and just shoot another coat over it?
 
Nope. Just be sure to not sand through to the base. Sometimes it is best to shoot a couple of more coats, block sand it flat and shoot a "flow coat."

This is why we say that most of the dirt and issues come from the painter. You should get a painter's suit (especially when shooting clear coat), a painter's sock and be wearing gloves.

Don't feel bad, we have all had these experiences at one time or another. Just wait until you get in a hurry and spill a whole cup of paint on the floor because you left the stir stick in the cup and hit it with your elbow. :rolleyes:
 
I had no trouble smoothing it out without breaking through the clear. I took it down to 2000 grit. I could probably just move on to wet sanding the rest of the car but I'm not comfortable not being sure the clear will be thick enough in that area so I'll shoot another coat. I was concerned that I would see the sanded area under the new coat of clear. Is the new coat going to make that disappear?

Your comment about the stir stick made me laugh. I had one sticking out of a large mixing cup full of clear today and thought to myself "That's an accident waiting to happen" and pulled it out.
 
I’m always paranoid the lid on my gun is gonna pop off when I’m extended out across a roof clear coating it - that would ruin my day - anyone have that happen ?
 
Dave C 5 said:
I’m always paranoid the lid on my gun is gonna pop off when I’m extended out across a roof clear coating it - that would ruin my day - anyone have that happen ?
Click to expand...
I haven't had it come off, but I have had it leak. If the lid snaps in tight, you won't have a problem. If it feels loose like it has shrunk, get a new lid, or in a pinch wrap a piece of tape around the gap between the cup and lid.
 
I’ve had it leak- and I make sure it’s tight - still can’t help but think it’s gonna happen sooner or later - that’s my luck
 
if the original clear you sanded is fully cured, say more than 72hrs old then 2000 is too fine. you wont have proper adhesion. typically 600-800 or a grey scotchbrite works well.
 
The clear was about four hours old when I sanded it. I hope to re-spray it today which will be within 24 hours of the last coat. Obviously there's no shine on the area I sanded. Is that shine going to come back with just another coat? Should I sand the whole fender before spraying over the repair?
 
As Jim said, 2000 is typically too fine to clear over. I would at least have to go over the whole fender with a grey scotchbrite, for piece of mind, if you're worried about sanding through with 600-800. I would put at least 2 more coats on, also.
 
Dave C 5 said:
I’m always paranoid the lid on my gun is gonna pop off when I’m extended out across a roof clear coating it - that would ruin my day - anyone have that happen ?
Click to expand...
I have a SATA with the aluminum cup and red lid. A few years ago while painting a hood the lid popped off while in the middle of spraying clear. Ever since then I make sure the vent hold is open and I always tape the lid on now.
 
I'll sand the whole fender but just for my information, will the new coat of clear adhere to the existing clear that's less than 24 hours old even if it's been sanded to 2000? I'm thinking it would have a chemical bond.
 
I don't know exactly what the "window" is for reclearing without sanding, but there are probably a lot of variables involved like temperature, time between coats, mil thickness, etc. Urethane dries much different than epoxy, and I wouldn't trust chemical adhesion only, in your situation. Too easy to run a scotchbrite over it and know for sure, even sanded with 2000.
 
Dave C 5 said:
I’m always paranoid the lid on my gun is gonna pop off when I’m extended out across a roof clear coating it - that would ruin my day - anyone have that happen ?
Click to expand...

Usually it'll seep out between the lid and the cup. Like Texas I tape it. Tape across the lid, making an "X". Never had an issue once I started doing that.
 
Dave C 5 said:
I’m always paranoid the lid on my gun is gonna pop off when I’m extended out across a roof clear coating it - that would ruin my day - anyone have that happen ?
Click to expand...
I had that happen on the Coronet in my profile. The damn vent hole plugged and as I was shooting the clear on the rear trunk area the cap blew off and UC went all over the rear Dutchman's panel. Lots of sanding later I can still see it if the light hits it just right but no one else has notices it.
 
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