removing all prior sand scratches going up grits

B

bmxpegan411

I have my car finished in 320 grit, and I plan on going over with 400 dry prior to epoxy as a sealer...my question is, is it super difficult to remove all prior scratches when going to the next grit, or am I over thinking it? I usually try to throw a few coats of epoxy over the car, give it a few days in the sun then only use the grit I'm going to finish with to avoid any deeper scratches. I've found that I almost never seem to remove all the prior deep scratches during my body work stages, but I assume it's a whole different ball game when you start with 40 and go 80/180, compared to 320 to 400. I don't have guide coat but sometimes use lacquer spray bombs instead so I may go that route to be safe.

Also, is there any body that would finish in 320 then seal and paint, even with metallics? I find that's too course, but a few local places seem to finish everything in 320.
 
Walmart flat black spray bomb use it as guide coat or if black epoxy use white, will help see scratches, 400 dry then seal . I think 320 is to course for quality job ok for production work.
 
one thing i do is sand in different directions with every grit. this///// direction with one, then \\\\\\\\\ with the next. or something similar.
makes it a bit easier to see the refinement.
plus good lighting.
 
IMO it's easier to wet sand with 600 after 320 dry. (if you are doing it by hand) Second on what Shine says pounce powder (crafts store) or if you want to spend more dry guide coat available at your Jobber. Works with wet or dry sanding.
 
thanks for all the replies! I never heard of pounce powder before. Seems like an obvious choice over guide coat which costs an arm and a leg.
 
spray cans are kaka . 3m will rip you off on dry guide coat. pounce powder is cheap . use a cotton jersey glove to apply it .
 
Shine, does pounce powder seem to stay on through wetsanding and a W&G wipedown? I know that last W&G remover wipe before painting will make any missed scratches jump out if there is some guide coat left.
 
Unless i am misunderstanding the original question, the reason for sanding with your current grit(say 320) IS to remove all the scratches from the previous step(ie, 180).
When you are "done" with 320, thats what the surface finish should be, 320 scratches. If you can still see your 180 scratches, they wont magically go away when you put paint on it and a clear.
And that said, I always go to 600.
 
mitch_04 said:
Shine, does pounce powder seem to stay on through wetsanding and a W&G wipedown? I know that last W&G remover wipe before painting will make any missed scratches jump out if there is some guide coat left.
Click to expand...

Yes it will stay on during wet sanding. Solvent based W&G remover won't take it off, water based will some but not completely. If I have any residual left, my final step of gray scotch brite pad and "scuff stuff" takes it off.
 
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