Reducing Epoxy Primer

JimKueneman

Mopar Nut
Barry in the tech manual it says you can reduce the epoxy primer up to 50%. Is that 50% of just the epoxy paint or 50% of the epoxy+activator?

Jim
 
It's important for all the new guys to know that the epoxy must always be mixed with equal parts primer and activator, no matter how much you are going to thin it with reducers.
 
Does it matter when you reduce? Would it be during the mixing of epoxy and activator -or- add reducer after the induction period (epoxy + activator) has been satisfied. I've been reducing after the induction period has passed, if that's right, and spraying afterwards.

Mike
 
When reducer is added to the activated epoxy, it will tend to settle. This does not hurt it, but to make sure the induction process is doing as well as it can, put a lid on the container, and pop the lid off and stir it every half hour or so until ready to spray.
 
I have clean never rusted straight sheet metal. Any reason not to shoot base-coat directly over the epoxy in order to get great adhesion between the 2? If I decide to go ahead and use a 2K over epoxy do I get as good adhesion between base and 2k as I would base and epoxy? Is there a recoat time for the 2k before putting base on?
 
Typically bare metal gets a minimum of 2 coats of unreduced epoxy for maximum adhesion and corrosion protection. This can produce some texture, so sanding is to achieve a nice smooth surface. But you can go ahead and spray right over it if you really want to .
 
s there a recoat time for the 2k before putting base on?
You don't want to spray base directly over 2K without sanding because of texture. 2K is applied for sanding out imperfections. Same for applying base directly over unreduced epoxy, as crash said above. It goes on smoother than 2K, but will still have some texture that will transfer to your final product if not leveled. Blocking out the epoxy will assure you no dents, dings, or other imperfections were missed before you apply the paint and clear.
 
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