Reclear window

NextGen Classics

Floor sweeper
I checked the search and may have missed it but what is the time frame for reclearing after it has been sanded with 400 wet? I cleared the car yesterday,I am blocking today with 400 wet but there is no way I will have the whole car blocked before 24 hours.I will put 3 more coats on it.Thanks
 
you can do that but I'd recommend sanding it with 600 grit first.
It sands really easy.
It's a perfect opportunity to get a really good, straight finish.
Painters do it all the time on purpose, the second application is called a flow coat.
It will lay on like glass the second spraying.
It doesn't take much clear and some reduce it more for the flow.
I've gotten finishes that way that look like they were buffed.
 
jcclark;n81926 said:
you can do that but I'd recommend sanding it with 600 grit first.

He said 3 to 4 days after sanding the clear with 400 wet.Are you saying you would re-sand it with 600 before clearing?Why would that be needed?
 
Think there's a little confusion in the question asked here & the answer in post 5. Think jc missed reading post1. It happens to all of us trying to help from time to time.
​I'd think a few days would be safe before reclearing freshly sprayed clear that was just block sanded. 400 grit is fine, 600 is another persons preference of sanding grit. Job can dictate best grit needed or even sand most of the way flat with heavier grit & switch to finer for final sanding. 400 to 800 is an approx. range for grit to use.

If you did have an unforeseen delay in spraying after blocking with 400, I'd definitely only lightly hit with 800 grit.
 
To paint an already sanded surface that has been sitting around for a while, scrub it wet with a fine gray scuff pad and some Dawn. Scrub it like you have to eat off of it, don't let any part dry before rinsing, rinse using plenty of clean water, then dry it with clean prep wipes. Then it is ready to wipe with W&G remover and shoot.
 
To paint an already sanded surface that has been sitting around for a while, scrub it wet with a fine gray scuff pad and some Dawn. Scrub it like you have to eat off of it, don't let any part dry before rinsing, rinse using plenty of clean water, then dry it with clean prep wipes. Then it is ready to wipe with W&G remover and shoot.


I hate dig up a old one but what is the purpose of the grey scuff pad with dawn? Is it a adhesion issue, a contamination issue, or just the residue issue from sanding. I have a reclear to do with UV that was sanded over a week ago.....
 
I believe its a residue issue. I've cleared, sanded with 400 dry, wiped with W&G remover then recleared and saw a haze on the panel because it wasn't completely cleaned of sanding dust. At least that's why I think they say to scuff wet.
 
I believe its a residue issue. I've cleared, sanded with 400 dry, wiped with W&G remover then recleared and saw a haze on the panel because it wasn't completely cleaned of sanding dust. At least that's why I think they say to scuff wet.

Thanks ksungela, I'm dealing with black so I'm concerned. I washed a panel down today to reclear with dawn, wiped with W&G and since I had blue gloves on, swiped a fingure across it. I noticed the white residue on my glove so I washed it down good again with both, I still picked up residue on my glove and saw a cloudy look while it was wet. I totally backed off the reclear until I could research the best procedure......
 
I believe it was JimC that said he wiped last with reducer before reclearing. After sitting a week, I would definitely scuff it with a gray pad for adhesion and to remove any contamination that possibly got on it.
 
Last edited:
I hate dig up a old one but what is the purpose of the grey scuff pad with dawn? Is it a adhesion issue, a contamination issue, or just the residue issue from sanding. I have a reclear to do with UV that was sanded over a week ago.....

To add to what Texas said, the gray scuff pad is combined with Scuff Stuff (concentrated cleaning agent with micro abrasives) usually, and serves the purpose of scuffing and cleaning something. The flexibility of the scuff pad allows you to get scratches on any area that you may have missed when sanding with paper. When using it with Dawn you won't get as good scratches as you would with Scuff Stuff. You'll need to change the pad more often. But you will get it as clean as when using Scuff Stuff.
If something sits for an extended period of time there is a certain amount of "self healing" that the sanded area may do. Most prominently this is seen with Urethane primers and Clears. That's why it's always recommended that you re-scuff something if it has been sitting for any length of time.
As for your residue if you washed it and wiped it down with W&G remover you should not see any residue. Perhaps re-examine what you are doing. Make sure you are rinsing everything well.

Here is something I wrote to help with questions like you have. If you follow it you will not have any issues (or residue:))

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.p...y-to-wipe-down-a-vehicle-prior-to-paint.6622/
 
Last edited:
Back
Top