Re- clear after buffing

Rbm

Rbm

Professional amateur
I painted and cleared a hood with UV clear....thought I could cut and buff to get it looking good...I still don't like it...this was about 5 Weeks ago. Can I clean it, sand with 800 , and clear again? I put 3 coats on prior. I cut with 1000- 3000 grit. I used 105 compound
 
Yes, you can but are you sure you buffed it good and right first.
Don't mean this as an insult at all but if you're not real experienced at buffing re-clearing and buffing again will result in the same deal no matter what compound you use.
 
What about the finish didn't you like?
What was the original (before sanding) like?
Orange peel is a pain to remove. Also, I seem to not sand enough to remove the coarsest grit scratches before moving on up the scale.
 
Barry, I'm am an amateur at cut and buff. The problem I had was I put scratches in the finish that I was scared to cut any more due to burning thru . I opted to stop before really making a mess. I was so aggravated I just walked away from it for a while. I had read where some people were just using spray bottles of water to wet and sand with..I tried that and made a mess. I totally agree with Shine's method of flooding the panel constantly for my next try. If I could get the UC dialed in a little better, I won't cut at all.!

Shine, no, I stepped thru 500 grit at the time....the job actually looks pretty good other than deep scratches from trash under paper. I think I will go out to 5000 machine next try tho.
 
Long weekend so assume you will be working on it, feel free to call me on the tech line if don't answer leave message and call you right back.
 
My Poor execution of plans does not make it an emergency on your part..thanks but I won't bother anyone on their down time. Everyone have a great holiday weekend!
 
most likely 1000 scratches. most common problem. i use 1200-1500-2000-2500-3000. the 1000 are hard to buff out so if they are showing hit it again with 1200 the step up. from 1200 to 3000 is not a tuff step. they come out much faster.
 
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After using the uv clear for the last 4 years, I've developed some rules when it comes to it. I never touch UV with anything less than 1500, its just too soft for my comfort level to go any lower than that, although it is incredibly difficult to burn uv clear opposed to other big brand clears, it can happen when trying to get those larger grit sand scratches out. I've talked to Barry and my jobber about this next rule 2, and they say its more of personal preference and having the confidence in the clear with the experience you have with it. I always block/sand uv clear the very next day, then I let it sit outside (weather permitting) for at least a day before blocking any more, or doing any compounding and polishing. I've tried it the other way around, letting it get uv exposure first, than sanding and polishing and find it a bit more difficult to sand or buff. Rule 3, its a sloppy mess but keep the panel wet as an otters pocket, use clean water and clean paper,UV doesn't like any type of trash on your paper or you're asking for a punishing time trying to get the scratch out, and even if you do chances of it coming back are relatively high, so keep it clean and wet. Just like you've already mentioned, step up paper gradually. Another thing I've learned is UV seems to really like really high speed compounding and medium speed polishing, the rpm I use on UV with compound would destroy any of the big brand clears almost instantly, but uv reacts so well to it and doesn't die back when using that higher rpm. I've seen other clears look incredible after a high speed polish and within an hour things are showing back up that you spent so much time correcting. medium speed polishing on uv brings out the super bling.
 
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Very informative ex-paint. Thx for the details. Seems to be a consensus not to use 1000 grit...maybe was my first mistake. I like the idea of first cut early, then cure before proceeding. it's a striped hood and I really don't want to lay them out again. But based on the most excellent advice on here, I am going to try and sand the scratches out and buff again. My theory is if there are still 1k scratches then there should be enough clear. We'll see. I will change process when I paint the whole car..
 
nothing wrong with 1000 . but if you jump to 1500 or 2000 your pissing into the wind. 1200 then 1500 and work the 1200 good.
 
Exactly what I did that I see was wrong. To big a jump.The deepest scratches are at random Angles, makes me think 1k and trash scratches. Y'all keep me in mind if I come back with a burn thru thread.!!
 
Update...I got it looking pretty good...I may keep it...is 3m perfect-it in the purple bottle with a blue 3m pad the last step or is there something after that to finish up? I'm gonna try chem bros. Stuff but this is what I have on hand.
 
I learned to buff on this first paint job. I ended up buffing it about 4 times. Each time I got more confident and cranked up the RPMs a bit more. The last time, with the wool pad and step 1 of the Presta 2 step system, the magic was in the RPM. It just popped and the scratches disappears to my satisfaction (if you look at it just right under florescent light you can see a few here and there).
 
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