Pullmax P7 restoration

Sparky

Promoted Users
Hi Gang,

Well, here I am diving into the world of painting with SPI product line, and figured before I move on to my car, I should go through my learning curve with a Pullmax I’m fixing up.


I appreciate any advise on what I’m doing wrong or right, and I’ll be taking notes on your critiques as I seem to learn better when I write something down, just like back in school.
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The Pullmax was used well, and most of the seals leaked profusely, 2 of 3 belts were blown due to a seized idler roller, but it worked. Took it all apart, had to make some special tools, but got it apart.

I media blasted all the parts to be painted down to bare metal, with an aggressive grade of coal slag, to remove the three + layers of old paint. I found that there was a lot of filler used from the factory to fill the numerous craters, and smooth out the welds


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I prepped for my first SPI epoxy. Masked and cleaned all the parts with SPI solvent W&G remover, but I noticed this left a lot of lint on the rough surfaces. I used heavy shop towels, but wonder if I should’ve used more expensive lint free at this early stage? I blew off most of the lent but some of it was stubborn and would not come off even with the air, as I later found out. After waiting about an hour for the waxing grease remover to dissipate, I got my exhaust fan going, my supplied air mask set up, suit on, and mixed up some black epoxy 1:1 And sprayed two coats, using a Iwata lph400 set up exactly like Barry explains in the gun setup doc.
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I waited 24 hours and spent the day mixing up small batches of 3m filler I had in stock from a previous project. Man it must’ve been older than I thought as it was very thick and took a lot of effort to mix and spread evenly. I filled all the craters.

The next day I spent sanding down the filler with 36 grit on a DA. It didn't sand well, was like a rock, but I got it all feathered out. I’m not going the block the thing laser straight, but more want to get my feet wet with the products and proccesses.

Here is where I think I screwed up, I vacuumed all the overspray in the Booth, blew off the parts with air, fan going, W&G wiped everything, waited 1 hour, and shot SPI 2k primer through the cheap Vaper 2.5. I think I was supposed to epoxy one more time first. Now where the filler is on the main machine body I can see a different shade of gray. I only did one wet coat. The other parts are fine as I did no filling on them, just the 2 coats of epoxy.
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I plan on tonight sanding the main body down and shooting with epoxy.

I purchase a ppg essential gray machine SS paint for the final, but have some work before I get there.

please comment and ask away, I need to learn from my mistakes.

chris
 
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Filler will soak up 2k. By 3rd coat would be gone. As long as you follow 2k flash times you can go 3 coats no problem. I would buzz that 2k with 180 ish and shoot 2 more. Then a quick 320-400 and go for color. No need for any more epoxy.
 
FWIIW, you would have seen the difference in texture with the epoxy just like you did with the 2K. Once either is sanded and re-primed it will be gone. What you are experiencing is perfectly normal.

John
 
For future reference, I wouldn't recommend spraying 2K over 36# scratches on anything that mattered. I don't even like spraying 2K over 80#. The standard is finishing filler with 180# before primer. Also, spray at least 2 coats of 2K so you have something there to sand.
 
For future reference, I wouldn't recommend spraying 2K over 36# scratches on anything that mattered. I don't even like spraying 2K over 80#. The standard is finishing filler with 180# before primer. Also, spray at least 2 coats of 2K so you have something there to sand.
Thanks for the tip Texas. I see there are a lot of little fine details I need to pay attention to when you guys share your knowledge.

So the 36# scratch is too deep to fill with 2k, I should use filler up to 180#, then move to 2k.

Why is 2k not good to use to fill deep scratches?

chris
 
Scratches that deep will show back up after the primer shrinks, even if they sand out. The primer will also tend to bridge over the scratch if not applied very wet. If your filler would have been finished with 180, 2-3 coats of epoxy would have left you with a sand and paint finish, with better durability than 2K, especially on a piece of machinery.
 
Scratches that deep will show back up after the primer shrinks, even if they sand out. The primer will also tend to bridge over the scratch if not applied very wet. If your filler would have been finished with 180, 2-3 coats of epoxy would have left you with a sand and paint finish, with better durability than 2K, especially on a piece of machinery.
Got it, it’s in my notebook now. Thanks for the explanation Texas!
 
I’ve been doing a little each day. This is a good intro project to get use to the SPI epoxy and filler work, and paint, and learn from my mistakes.

after the last epoxy application, I shot the SS ppg essential paint on the components hanging on the rack. Two wet coats.
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I disassemble the gun after each session and clean it with lacquer thinner, then follow that up with a little bit of oil on the fluid rod right where it enters the packing nut. I use the oil that came with the gun cleaning kit.
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next I started laying on the Rage filler I bought to fill the numerous craters in the plate steel sides of the Pullmax. Seeing how there was a window of time to get this filler put on I decided to put it on all at once. It took a little bit to get the ratio of Hardner correct as the instructions on the can caused it to set up in under a minute, and it was only 70° here yesterday. Some of it went on thicker because of this than I would’ve liked, just be a little more work sanding.
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I’ve been knocking the filler down with a DA palm sander with 40#. It has a soft foam interface pad and I’m using 3m gold sanding discs.

here’s the compressed air set up I’m running for my spraygun. It also runs my media blast cab. Never any moisture issues.

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After sanding the filler down, I shot two more coats of SPI epoxy. I let that sit over night at 73* and shot 2 coats of paint 24 hrs later. I pushed the limit on how slow I could move the Lph400 and got a few runs on an edge. I really appreciate all the advice on this forum on gun setup and technique, to help me learn.
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Tonight I rolled out the main frame of the Pullmax. Removed all the masking, getting it prepped for reassemble.

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I washed out the main head of any remaining media grit. Degreaser and hosed it for 20 minutes. Last thing for tonight, I cleaned up the gasket surfaces, dried it out, and prepped it for reassemble of the internals.



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I had to add weld in the worn slots to take the slop out of the arbor lift lever, then machine the slots back in with 10* bevels to match the handle key.
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Got all the internals installed, pins pressed in, and the main head mounted to the frame.

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Got it all back together and up and running. No more leaking oil, burning belts, or squealing bearings. Made some support legs with adjustable rubber machine pads.

just have to mount the Pullmax plate on the front round cover I had to fab.

Now I need to make some reducer sleeves for the square collets so I can utilize all three sizes these machines come with, and start making some of the more common dies needed.

before and after...

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Looks awesome! It seems most Pullmax nibblers leak due to the oil bath design and worn seals, so good job of curing that as well..
Thanks Robert!

That’s why I started the tear down, all the leaking oil. Glad I did, there was a lot more wrong.

I have to make a fence now, some collet reducers to accept the 5/8 & 3/4 tools (for versatility), a tool welding jig, then some tooling as I need it for my projects. Fay Butler has provided me with his universal sheet metal machine handbook, It is full of a wealth of info to making all of the above.

His seminar has really taught me how to refine my thinking and approach in everything I do. I really grateful to have met him.
 
Looks awesome! Just started the tear down on my same machine. Have to do a lot of the same repairs. All of my tags are in good shape except for the motor tags, any chance yours are good and if so could I get pictures of them so I can redo mine. Thanks
 
Wow not sure how I missed this, but what a fantastic job.
Like the old cars, they never looked as good when they were new.
Barry
 
Looks awesome! Just started the tear down on my same machine. Have to do a lot of the same repairs. All of my tags are in good shape except for the motor tags, any chance yours are good and if so could I get pictures of them so I can redo mine. Thanks
The motor tag was pounded on this machine. It looks like it had a hard life!
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