PSA roll for hard block clear sanding

dhutton01

Backyard Hack
I’ve been able to avoid hard block sanding of clear up until now but I’ve got a little bit of wave in my latest job. Is there a 600-800 PSA roll that can be used dry? I prefer to do my first round dry because I can see the progress.

Thanks,
Don
 
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I used Klingspor #1-8002280000

Part# AR00800 2 3/4" by 10 meter wet roll
# AR01000 for 1000 grit
#AR01500 for 1500 grit ( I thought the 1500 was a little crude so I don't use it) (Scratchy)

My guess AR00600 would be 600 grit but I don't know.
You buy right from them and they are custom cuts so you could get longer rolls if you want. Takes a couple weeks to order it.

I love the 80 grit AR20013 board paper. Cuts better than all the rest. The psa can be to sticky though and is a pain if you don't dust the board first to limit adhesion.
 
Does 600 dry hand paper actually work? Or does it load up very quickly? Never used anything finer than 400 dry (hand), and I wasn't a big fan of that.
 
Does 600 dry hand paper actually work? Or does it load up very quickly? Never used anything finer than 400 dry (hand), and I wasn't a big fan of that.
I think that’s the million dollar question. Ideally I would find 3M finishing film in rolls with a PSA or even a hookit backing. I’ve tried a few things but they seem to load up quickly and/or leave deep scratches.

My eyesight is like Mr Magoo so I like to do the first pass dry so I can see the results easily....

Don
 
I find that wet sanding with 1000 grit works great to get things flat. Just work a small section at time, keep a spray bottle with water in it to rinse and wipe dry so as to check progress, etc.

Lately I have been using 1000 dry on a DA for the first go around. It does make it easier to see your progress but won't take the wave out as nicely as the hard block does.
 
Does 600 dry hand paper actually work? Or does it load up very quickly? Never used anything finer than 400 dry (hand), and I wasn't a big fan of that.
Not really. It does load up quickly and will leave deep scratches if you don't stay on top of cleaning the clumps off. Last time I got wave bad I got mad, blocked with 320 dry, and recleared. The only thing I have used that works really well dry by hand is the Eagle Tolecut system. I haven't used it to block out wave, but it cuts great and doesn't clog. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G9VCHF7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3FVO9J4PEP77F&psc=1
 
Use a sharpie marker to see your progress, it works like guide coat. Silver on dark colors and black on light colors. Do a bunch of squiggly lines all over the panel, especially on and around body lines and edges. This lets you wetsand so the paper doesn't clog and you can see exactly how much material is being removed which keeps you from oversanding and thinning the clear excessively. Then switch to Mirka dry guide coat after the initial round of blocking. Regular guidecoat doesn't stick to unsanded clear but sharpie markers will.

ADeKxfLh.jpg


W4QRPnHh.jpg


TPtlIWzh.jpg
 
Use a sharpie marker to see your progress, it works like guide coat. Silver on dark colors and black on light colors. Do a bunch of squiggly lines all over the panel, especially on and around body lines and edges. This lets you wetsand so the paper doesn't clog and you can see exactly how much material is being removed which keeps you from oversanding and thinning the clear excessively. Then switch to Mirka dry guide coat after the initial round of blocking. Regular guidecoat doesn't stick to unsanded clear but sharpie markers will.

ADeKxfLh.jpg


W4QRPnHh.jpg


TPtlIWzh.jpg
Good idea. Maybe you really are a rocket scientist... :>)

Thanks,
Don
 
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